This route is a good line with a little bit of chunky rock. Climb up to the roof (moderate) through the roof (less moderate) and pull the lip of the roof (moderately difficult, crux) and then continue up the crack to the anchors. The protection is solid, but the crack is not very smooth. I did not tape and I ended up bloody. Tape up!
Location
This is the left-most route in the sunnyside crags. About 20 meters to the right of the Cold September Corner area, below a good sized roof, and to the right of it's apex, you can see a hands to wide-hands crack splitting the roof and going up above it to a set of webbing anchors. This is the climb.
This route was surprisingly moderate given how steep and ominous looking it is. The moves through the roof are fun and unique. There are enough good face holds that it can still b climbed if you aren’t solid on hand jamming, although it helps.
One thing to watch out for, as I lowered from the top the rope pressed against a couple cams in the roof and shoved them pretty far back in there. I was able to retrieve them with a couple minutes of work but it’s something to watch out for. If my blue camalot had gone another 4 inches in it would have been completely out of reach.
If it weren't for the loose rock this climb would be pretty classic.
Sunnyside Crags
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