Hop Route 

Descent is not a walkoff -- mixed downclimbing/tree rappel down a steep gully system behind the left side of the crag. Be careful.

Both times I've done this climb I've found the wide section early in the crack to be brutal. But nobody else ever mentions it so I guess it's not that bad. The anchor on top of the first pitch is an amazing nest of multicolored slings around chickenheads and through natural threads. Close inspection, however, reveals that none of these features look like they could hold much more than bodyweight. We climbed up a bit to the left and belayed on a large ledge. The second pitch is good, definately worth doing. 5.6-ish crack climbing. The third pitch is just a short scramble, and the descent gully is kind of nasty. We did a couple raps.

Word of warning- the right-hand crack (the "normal" start) is clean, beautiful and aesthetic. The left-hand crack, in the corner, is dirty, loose and hard to protect. This could limit its popularity...

Where the variations join there is a block with slings, it was not clear to me if this was supposed to be the end of the first pitch or not. Swain says P1 is only 100' long so I think he is thinking so. Anyway, I decided to continue to the anchor you can see from the ground that is mentioned above. Here I found a giant ledge with two chopped bolts, and above this a mass of slings wrapped around and jammed in every crack in sight. It is true that some of the knobs look pretty bad, but other parts of the anchor looked good to me. Anyway we rapped off it (but did back it up with gear for the first guy).

I totally agree with Matt Faust re; the brutality of the early wide crack section. This was one of my first few trad leads a while back and I almost peed my pants on the beginning, as I found it difficult to protect and too "off-widthy" for comfort. Once I surpassed the wide crack section, my behavior instantly changed from the classic horror movie, terrified, shaky, cry baby, "I almost got eaten by a zombie," demeanor , to a euphoric, smiling, pleased, "I just shot and killed the zombie," expression. I loved the rest of the climb though ,as it was a reminder that, "Wow, leading trad is fun!" One thing for sure....This climb will stick to me like a bad Red Rock tick would like to do.

The wide crack start was indeed not easy. Even higher up going up the thinning crack the route kept me focused. I'd say this route is more aesthetic and harder as well as more sustained than "Fold Out" (two route over to the right).

The webbing sling anchors at 100 feet and 175 feet have both been removed from this route sometime in the last year. This leaves no option for descent other than climbing to the top of the feature and walking off left.

I don't know why they were removed, perhaps they were unsightly (see picture), but they weren't unsafe. Climbers are now commited to climb less-memorable and more-junky rock to the top. John

well, some kind soul has replaced the rap anchor at 150' or so (maybe 175'- two ropes get you down comfortably)...it had a carabiner and a hollow rap ring- i added a locker to make it more equalized....the webbing and cordlette are very new.

really good climbing- the spooky start felt much more relaxed since the first time i did it a few years back, but my partner was pretty stressed leading it!

also, the left hand corner seems to be semi-decent- my friends did it today and didnt complain about a lack of gear or bad rock, but i think the right hand start still is the way to go- it's pure joy after the first 20' or so!

'Thought the version of the first pitch that stopped before pulling up above the roof line (160ft?) was excellent. ****
Entry moves may well be 5.9, and a large cam (#5?) would make the wide start much easier to protect.

A heads up for folks using the descent from the top of the formation. My partner and I had to leave one of our ropes as a fixed line due to severe rock fall damage up on Crawford's Corner. The rope as fixed to the anchor is fine for rappelling, but I would appreciate it if it be taken down if someone gets to it before I do- it has several core shots and I cannot be sure that there is not more damage to the line that is not visible. If you do take it down, please let me know- I'll buy you a beer and send the rope back for recycling!

If the rope was in the standard descent gully, it's gone.

One armbar/chicken wing move in the wide crack, and you're at the money jams.

We did the route in four pitches, belaying the first pitch at the point where the variations converge in the corner. Made rope drag less of an issue and conserved gear (geez, I think we placed a #3 camlot about 6 times on this route).

Bummer about the chopped anchor at the top of the big corner. Perfect place for a rappel. That and an anchor at the top of the "good rock" on the 5.6 crack would make this route much more enjoyable, IMHO. Less intrusive than the gobs of slings folks leave on the pinches (of dubious quality). Gully works fine for a descent, but, pulling ropes or downclimbing a gully with loose rock, part of that game I suppose... Speakin' of that gully, anyone know what the route is just right of Atras?