Start just left of the obvious dihedral to the left of Mercedes and climb the steep crack with jugs till it slabs out. The anchors aren't visible from the ground nor the end of the steep climbing. You then break left on the very dark, polished face. You can toprope three other routes once you hit the anchors, which are Gothom City, Spring Break, and Tarantula. All of which are hard trad lines.
This is the steepest trad 5.9 I've been on. Its overhanging, yet tons of huge holds make it 5.9. Take some small gear (black alien) for the top slabby traverse.
By vegastradguy From: Henderson, NV Mar 19, 2007 rating: 5.9+
a second #2 camalot (or equivalent) will protect the traverse nicely...no need for micro gear.
really amazing climb, though- steep, fun, surprisingly well protected, and a thoughtful finish! full value for sure!
Sunnyside Crags
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