Crawling into the squeeze on pitch 1 of Middle Ear...
Description
This is an interesting route with some good climbing. The name relates to the long, fully enclosed tunnel on the fifth pitch. Two ropes are needed for the rappel.
About a hundred yards to the left of the Frigid Air Buttress, a rounded whitish apron leans against the lower wall. Scramble up ledges on its left side for a few hundred feet to a rope-up point where the rock steepens.
Pitch 1: On the right, climb a convoluted offwidth crack formed by the left edge of a huge flake (5.9). The easier chimney above is unprotected. The flake rounds off to a good belay ledge (which is also the ledge beneath the 5.9 handcrack halfway up the Frigid Air Buttress route).
Pitch 2: Avoid the FAB crack, and instead climb the left-leaning jam crack in the clean varnished wall on the left. (5.8)
Pitch 3: A short pitch up and left to a big ledge.
Pitch 4: Move to the back right corner of the ledge and climb a varnished corner, then go left and belay among broken rocks in the main gully system.
Pitch 5: Climb to the back of the gully then go up a dark, tight, fully enclosed vertical chimney tunnel.
Pitch 6: Easy climbing leads to the top.
Descent: Scramble left to the standard rappel route (2 ropes) down Burlesque.
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