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Sunnyside Crags
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Magellanic Cloud 

5.9

   

FA: Unknown, 1980s
Type: Trad
Consensus: 5.9 [details]
Length: 1 pitch, 50 feet
Views: 605 page views

Submitted By: Matt Faust on Mar 7, 2004


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BETA PHOTO: Photo of Rich climbing Magellanic Cloud taken from...


Description 

Start up the face just left of the Shady Ladies corner. Climb the left-facing, left-trending corner to a roof. Move right across face, then climb beautiful left-facing corners up to communal belay ledge.

Wonderful climbing on great rock.


Protection 

Gear to #3 Camalot



Photos of Magellanic Cloud Slideshow Add Photo
Past the crux traverse on Magellanic Cloud and facing annoying rope drag.  Photo by AJ Burch.

Past the crux traverse on Magellanic Cloud and fac...


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By Darshan Ahluwalia
Feb 12, 2007

I thought the traverse right across the face towards the roof was pretty scary. Definitely had a few 5.9 moves. You wouldn't want to fall at the crux, as doing so would land you into a potentially painful slab corner.

By Russ Walling
From: www.FishProducts.com
Feb 14, 2007
rating: 5.8

So so climb with some rope drag problems. Be sure to sling the crux nut or pay the price later. The moves are pretty easy for 5.9, with good holds after a huge rest. Anchor is a nice wad of slings along with a bolt. A few other routes share this same anchor, so be aware of how you clip it up if there is a crowd.

By Matt McMurray
From: Castle Rock, CO
Apr 23, 2007
rating: 5.9 PG13

I agree with Darshan that a crux fall would be painful, hence I gave the PG-13 rating. The protection is good up to that point, but swinging off the traverse would not be fun...

By Gaar
From: Springdale / Zion UT
Apr 10, 2008

you can protect the traverse by getting a solid #4 stopper ABOVE the bottom finger lock directly around the corner...but placing it is a little difficult. just come back down and rest after placing it