This is a decent route, but a somewhat tricky lead for the grade, with some loose rock.
Start in the very smooth, varnished dihedral about 40 feet left of the Shady Ladies corner, and 20 feet left of Magellanic Cloud. The initial moves are a little tricky, and there is no protection for about 20 feet or so, hence the serious rating. It's not really too bad. Later on, there potential for your rope to get stuck in a crack and cause SERIOUS drag, so watch for that. The last moves are on some crumbly rock with less-than-ideal protection. End at the communal belay ledge.
the drag is not that bad if you extend your placements properly. i would not give this an R rating. i'm still a young buck to trad, but i laced this thing up tight.
You should use a double rope system with this route so as to totally eliminate rope drag. The traverse is easy, but if you did slip it would hurt. Still gets an R because of that. Fun climb, but kind of convoluted
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