Once you've done this route you can see it while keeping the cooler company back at the Ice Box Canyon Parking Area. A very distinctive black streak comprises the crux second pitch. A lot of hiking for this one route, but a great way to round out the day if you're already in the canyon.
Scramble out of the wash to a prominent blonde pedestal of soft rock piled against the Refrigerator Wall. You'll see the bolts of Kisses Don't Lie around to the left of Breakaway while hiking in the wash.
The first pitch leaves the top of the pedestal past four bolts on some brown varnish. Every hard (5.8) move has a bolt where you need it. Near the top of the first pitch it slabs out. Set up a gear belay (#1, 1.25, and 3 friend) in some cracks near the top of the slab. You'll belay off some footholds, but still on the slab.
From the first belay, move up and left toward the first bolt and the beggining of the black streak. A blue alien and #2 wallnut protect some 10a moves up to the first bolt. Charge through the first two bolts on steep rock (crux, 10c). The wall above looks to be about 11d. You'll be thinking about those RP's you left at the base, but not to worry. The holds next to the thin seam are always good, the bolts (a total of eleven on this pitch) are close enough, and the position is fantastic. After the last bolt, there is a bit of a run-out on easier climbing, I plugged in a #2 friend before clipping the anchors.
You'll need two ropes for the rappels.
Protection
A very light rack; med. stoppers, #1, 1.25, and 3 friend for belay. 2nd P; Blue Alien, #2 wallnut to 1st bolt, #2 friend after last bolt.
Some scary climbing to the first bolt on the second pitch. Don't do like me and climb in from the left side. The rock is shit and there is no pro. This climb is a classic and you'll be amazed that every hold doesn't pop off in your hands. A cool head is necessary for this one. Sweet and steep climbing on this fine line.
Just climbed this fun and exciting route. It felt harder than 10c. Most of the route is pretty well protected, but the last 30 feet or so is run-out. Like Karsten said, a cool head is helpful. Most of the route stayed to the left of the black streak and the mostly edges (not flakes),that I pulled on, seemed pretty solid. Having said that, some holds did give me reason to pause and consider the options. I thought the second bolt of the second pitch seemed a bit awkward to clip.
Instead of climbing the first pitch up and right following the bolts climb up and left after clipping the third bolt. Run it out (easy climbing) to a large pedestal just left of second pitch. You can set up a nice comfortable belay here with camalots (2 #2's and a #3) This makes for easier and safer access to second pitch.
Refrigerator Wall
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