Shows "The Boila" on left and "The Broon" on the r...
Description
This wall is located almost exactly halfway between the first and second pullouts, and can be approached from either in about 15 minutes. The wall is located at the very bottom of the wash directly below the Ultraman Wall.
Variety of routes from moderate top-ropes to short 10+-11+ sport routes. Shady-- a nice spot to hide from the sun. Rock is chossy at the start and cleans up nicely the higher you go.
Getting There
Approach as for Ultraman wall. When you are standing in the wash looking up at Ultraman, the cliff is right behind you-climbs start directly from the wash.
There are about 5 (5.8-5.9) routes on the left side of New Castle Crag about 30 feet to the left of the 5.10/11 routes. The easier wall may also be known as "Mark and Jake's Area". All routes are listed in the new Black Book.
Another way to think about getting there: On the trail to Ultraman, once you descend into the wash, continue walking straight West-Northwest, instead of walking North towards the Ultraman wall. Look for the 4' wide 30' high passage between two massive rocks, the left side of the passage is the start of New Castle Crag.
TR Anchors: When standing on top at the anchors of the easier routes I could only locate the anchors for The Broon, The Boila, and the anchor for both Mission Accomplished & Warrentless Wiretap. The last of which is missing a bolt and waiting to be repaired (ao 11/04/09).
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