This climb starts 50ft to the right of Ultraman 5.8+. The climb starts in a left facing corner in black varnish. A small piece can be placed to protect getting to the first bolt. Follow a total of 7 bolts to a 2 bolt anchor. The climbing is just a good as Ultraman, and a little more runout. There is groundfall potential between 30-40ft on the route. Be careful.
I led this the other day and compared to Clutch Cargo, I thought this one was less secure and more sustained. The route is very long, the bolts are a long ways apart, and the moves are classic palms down slab-I really liked this route.
By 46and2 From: Las Vegas, NV Jan 3, 2007 rating: 5.8+ PG13
Superb route but will need some new bolts sometime soon as a couple of them are sticking out from the wall a wee bit. Speed Racer is like Ultraman on the small slabby stuff that's insecure and super fun; great route just don't fall. Maybe a PG 13 rating but no way that is a "X" rating in my book. Awesome Slabba Dabba (must) Do
I would call this an X if you are not totally competent with 5.6ish climbing (the harder stuff is protected). Also the 2nd bolt B4 the long run-out section is loose.
By Guy Humphrey From: Fort Collins CO Jan 31, 2007
The "X" rating is for the ground fall potential between 30-40ft. I remember looking down after clipping the 2nd? bolt and seeing the ground fall potential. A "PG-13" rating is a sandbag on this one. The climbing is easy, but holds do break.
After clipping the bolt at the 30-40ft level, there are enough bolts to keep a "PG-13" or "R" rating.
By Chris Owen Administrator From: La Crescenta, CA Apr 15, 2007 rating: 5.8 PG13
5.8 - very nice sustained smearing moves past the last few bolts.
Not an X - remember that the potential for a fall takes into account the difficulty of the climbing - the big runout is quite casual, and actually fun with the runout. I'd be more worried about getting up to the first bolt - after all, the opening gear placement(s) are in sandstone.
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