This route is excellent, and there is normally no one on it. This route is located on the road side of the cliff on the right side, about 25ft left of the wide crack.
The hard parts are well protected, but the easier climbing is runout. Start with a cruxy headwall, and then climb the tiger striped slab to a black varnished roof. Pull the moderate roof and run it out on easy varish to the anchors. Rap with two ropes. A little bit of everything...
Protection
8 bolts, anchors
Photos of Shere Khan (aka A Fraction of the Action) Slideshow
The new Roxanna Brock guidebook calls this A Fraction of the Action. I climbed it last weekend, my first lead at this difficulty level. Loved it! The difficulty came when it came to descend. Even though I was not at the middle mark when I got to the top, when I tossed the (60 meter) rope to rap I my partner kept telling me one end was 25 feet short of the ground (and those first 25 feet are the crux). Granted the wind kicked up and the rope was blowing, but it just didn't make sense! I ended up having to have my partner tie on a second rope and rapping off 2 ropes. I was at RRR 2006 and had a class with Roxanna Brock the next day, and when I asked her about she said she knew the climb and that a single rope should have been enough to rap. Go figure.
By Mike Morley Administrator From: Oakland, CA Dec 31, 2006
Works best with a single 70m rope. A single 60m will require some trickery to get down.
Bring RPs, Ballnuts, and balls. The upper section has some dicey slopey moves on sheisty gear. Fun route though. Excellent training for the upper pitches on some of the long canyon "sport routes" i.e. Eagle Dance. I reccommend the headpoint.
yeah a 60 meter requires the belay to scramble up a little. tie the end of your rope though.
By jpvandever From: San Francisco, CA Mar 15, 2008 rating: 5.10-
Same rappel story as harmonydoc. Note that the 2007 Handren guidebook lists the length of this route at 90 ft. Obviously it is longer than that since you cannot rappel to the ground on a single 60m rope.
Great climb for the grade. The bolts are a little spacy, but it is a solid climb.
someone has put a rap ring on the 4th bolt of this route if you're not comfortable downclimbing after rappelling with a 60m. an old 60m would be very short on this one- i'd recommend a 70m to avoid any hassle at all.
Great climb with solid holds throughout. Someone has left bailout biners at bolts 7 and 8. We used a 70m for the full length as a 60m will leave you about 10-15ft off the ground on the way down.
No rap rings or bailout biners in evidence today. A single 70m works to set a TR and to rap. Still fun 3 years after my first time on this, hardest part is terrain past the first 2 bolts, after the initial bulge it all felt 5.8 or easier.
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