This route is a pretty fun route, but its otherwise cool nature is somewhat diminished by the flexing flakes that you use for holds, sometimes including the ones you are clipping from. The small and sustained nature of this climb gives it its grade, not the individual moves, which are probably only moderate 5.10.
Approach Panty Wall and walk to the far left, up a broad sloping gully to a very steep wall. At the left end of this wall is a flat face with a flake near the bottom. The crux, if I recall is about 1/2-way up the route.
Crimp and layback for 60 feet or so, passing 6 bolts to fixed rap anchors.
The other crux for this route is probably deciding where best to position your belayer. If the belayer is up high in the gully near where the route begins, it's quite possible for them to get pulled off the stance, and be left hanging in space.
just plop the belayer on the nice ledge at the base.
good route, the crux may have been .11a, but i wouldnt argue hard .10- this one just requires endurance.
good route, lots of fun.
By Matt McMurray From: Castle Rock, CO Nov 30, 2006 rating: 5.11a
Probably my favorite route at the PW. Very fun moves (crimps, liebacks, etc.) that continue for the bottom 2/3 of the route. If you climb the grade, and end up going to the PW, this would be a must climb. =)
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