BETA PHOTO: Overview of Lady Luck and Big Sky routes.
Description
I try to resist giving out too many stars, but this route deserves them. Good line. One thousand feet of easy climbing on perfect sandstone. An occasional minor crux thrown in to keep it interesting. This could be the best route on the First Creek Slabs.
The first three pitches ascend excellent slabs to good belays on comfortable ledges. On the third pitch go up and left (where Big Sky moves right to the next rib) and set up a belay beneath a beautifully varnished left-facing corner. Pitch 4 goes straight up the corner and exits right to a small belay perch even with the big overhangs. Pitch 5 does not continue up the crack, but instead makes a few improbable, but easy, steps left to gain a finger crack directly above the overhang. Continue up the rib, locating belays when suitable anchor options are available. The route finishes up the clean hand crack in a small, right-facing dihedral. (This is the same finish as Sunset Slab, which has joined this route from the left.)
Although the climbing on this route is rarely more difficult than 5.2, it still maintains a good level of interest. Protection options on the slab are limited, routefinding is important, and belay sites must be chosen with care. Beyond that, the route is fairly long for a beginning climber, and retreat would require leaving gear.
Location
Hike in the First Creek trail and climb to the top of the hillside beneath Rising Moons. Scramble and bushwhack right (west) along the base of the cliff. Continue about 60 feet beyond the jutting overhang of Big Sky.
Protection
Standard rack, maybe some extras on the small stuff
Descend as per the standard First Creek Slabs descent. Here's a picture describing the way down. It involves 4 rappels with a single 60m and some downclimbing.
Excellent fun! Here is my breakdown of the pitches: #1: 120' to big ledge; funky seam start then trend right up the middle of the face; 5.4 #2: 150' to trees/bushes; middle of the face; 5.3 #3: 200'+ to huge ledge below varnished corner; fun face; 5.3 we had a 60m rope and had to move the belay 20 feet into the corner #4: 110' up varnished corner; fun & easier than it looks, maybe 5.6 at the top; very small stance for belay 5.6 #5: 180' Head left just above the overhangs, then wander up the face. I kept mostly to the left side.5.3 #6: 200' Straight up the fun varnished face, mostly in the middle, aiming toward the right side. A belay appears just as you are about to give up hope (about 50' below the start of the finishing hand crack); 5.3 #7: 90' up the face to the obvious corner; its good climbing, but will be great if the lichen ever clears up. 5.7 The 50 yard up-amd-right above to find the gully was a full-on thrash through the bushes. We found a small ledge system that we traversed to the left after going up the gully. Not obvious. Once in the gully proper, the descent is eay to follow (head for the big pine tree and turn left..) Downclimbing was not too bad.
absolutely amazing route- definitely not challenging, but a joy to climb if you're looking for a good day out with friends with no pressure....
couple of notes:
first- if you're going up to the Labryinth Wall- this is the route to do it by. Solo up to the top of the 6th pitch, and short rope the last 5.7 section....
3rd pitch is not 200' from the big ledge- maybe 180' or so.
there's a fairly nice stance on the right side of the rib you can belay for the top of the 5th pitch. however, if you belay here, it is exactly 200' to the next belay, so any rope thats not new may not reach.
also, the gear was pretty sparse in places...but the climbing is never difficult. In fact, the big challenge here is that although this route is spectacular and deserves to be among RR's great moderates, the descent is non-trivial at the moment as it involves a fair bit of downclimbing that may leave some beginners a bit uncomfortable.
at any rate, an amazing route- much credit to Larry and friends for putting this one up.
First Creek Slabs
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