Climb the polished corner just to the left of the Friendship Route. At the top go right to the bolted anchor at the top of the first pitch of Friendship.
By Jeff G. From: Fort Collins Oct 2, 2007 rating: 5.10+ R
This pitch is an ultra classic and should not be missed!! A few bouldery moves get you up to a good stance below a small roof about 10 feet up. You can get good gear under the roof and a few good but small stoppers over the next ten feet. A bolt appears just when needed at about 25 feet. The crux is a very polished section of the corner where the crack becomes a seam. I placed a very good yellow C3 and a small stopper to protect the crux. The protection is at your feet when starting the hard moves so the move is a little scary and you are risking a moderate length fall by the time the hard stuff is over. There is a bomber lock in the corner past the smooth section, do whatever necessary to get it! I placed a great medium stopper in the finger lock. More tricky stemming passing another bolt gets you to the top of the main corner and one final bolt that protects the traverse right to the top of the friendship route. Some moderate runouts are encountered in the upper corner system. Rap with a single 70 or two 60's to the base of the Friendship route.
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