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Girls and Buoys 

5.5

   

FA: Kimi Harrison, Leslie Appling
Type: Trad
Consensus: 5.6 [details]
Length: 1 pitch, 80 feet
Views: 381 page views

Submitted By: Steve Marr on Feb 7, 2006


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BETA PHOTO: At the anchors on Girls and Buoys, Guise and Gals ...


Description 

From Guise and Gals, continue under the boulder and around the corner to find the start of Girls and Buoys. Good climb for a 5.5. Start in the left most of three corners at ground level and climb about 40 feet to a ledge. Step left into the first corner and continue to the anchors. The crux is stepping into the upper corner – the climbing is easy, but the pro is a little thin in spots, especially as you move higher. Fun, thoughtful route. (There is a 5.4 variation that climbs the second corner to the left from the ledge. It can also be reached by starting on Guise and Gals and traversing to the right.)


Protection 

Protection: Cams up to #3 Camalot for the bottom, small wires towards the top.



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By CalebSimpson
Apr 4, 2008
rating: 5.6

Felt more like 5.6 as did the route to the left.
I also recommend a #4 and a #.75 for the traverse left.
The left crack protects better than the right (after the traverse), but the right side looked easier. Perhaps that is why it felt more like 5.6. I was able to place a yellow and red (I think) TCU on that side.

Also, be careful moving to the anchors, the wall is VERY slick. I would clip in before moving onto the face the anchors are on. There is also currently (April 2007) a mangled mess of tattered webbing with one rap ring up on the anchors.