Katherine belaying under the boulder at the start ...
Description
Guise and Gals is the first climb in the Romper Room Area. To get to the start, climb to the ledge that starts near the Lotta Balls area and traverses under the Alcohol Wall. The climb works up a shallow dihedral on the face behind a large boulder. The dihedral is somewhat smooth, but the friction is good and it protects well. At the top of the dihedral, step left, and continue up the corner to the anchors on the wall to the left. Rappel with a single rope.
Crappy protection at the start, also felt more like 5.6, it requires a crazy high step to get on the rock then awkward stances to start as well. All I could get in at the start was some micro cams (in sideways, I doubt they would have held). The crack at the start was thin and flaring.