This is an excellent route. Some of the easier climbing is a bit runout, but the hard stuff is reasonably protected. Apparently, "bruja" is Spanish for witch (for those of you without your foreign language dictionaries...)
The climb starts immediately right of Lotta Balls, where a small left-facing corner leads up to a roof.
Pitch 1: Climb up to the roof, traverse right, pass a protection bolt, then climb up and right on easier face-climbing to a bolted belay position. The stance is right on top of a tiny, white, left-facing corner.
Pitch 2: Continue straight up via moderate face-climbing. Set up a belay on gear 30 or 40 feet below the giant overhang. Protection on this pitch is limited.
Pitch 3: Climb up to the overhang near its right end. Follow an improbable ramp a long way to the left (5.6) over soft and fragile rock. When the climbing becomes easy, go straight up to a belay at a small bush.
Pitch 4: Easy climbing goes up a low-angle crack to the top.
By Guy Humphrey From: Fort Collins CO Oct 29, 2006
The first pitch on this route is beautiful. After the face climbing near the first bolt, angle up and right to the varnished wall around the corner. There will be a bolt below a great thin crack in a black varnished wall.
Be careful not to place gear under the roof or you will have bad rope drag. I would suggest back cleaning the gear after placing a blue alien at the end of the roof traverse.
A doubly corrupted Swainish (spanglish) name with the english possessive apostrophy-s form on a spanish word followed by an english word, hehe. "Caldo de la Bruja"
The route description above has the first pitch ending at Lota Balls first belay which is a great way to do Lota Balls as well, better to find the second bolt out right and do the second very nice crux as mentioned in Guy's comment post.
The first pitch is muy excelente with bomber pro and great climbing. The rest of the route is good too if significantly easier. Additional long slings handy.
Lotta Balls Wall
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