This is the giant, right-facing corner on the left side of the Lotta Balls Wall. Because it is shaded from the morning sun, this route is a good choice for those warm-weather mornings. A worthwhile route if just for the impressive FA team.
Pitch 1: climb pleasant cracks to the base of the main dihedral. Pitch 2: 5.8 climbing leads up the dihedral to a good ledge. Pitch 3: continue up easier rock. Pitch 4: easy 4th class to the top.
Descend the Lotta Balls gully with a couple of short rappels.
Climbed today on a very windy day. UGH!This route felt a tad more difficult than Lotta Balls;Seemed like there were more "thinking" moves but a fun, worthwhile route to hop on, especially if Lotta Balls is crowded. There's some rotten hollow rock on the second pitch in a couple of spots and I found it hard to protect on a couple of the "cruxy" sections on pitch 2.
By Ian Wolfe From: Boulder, CO Mar 25, 2006 rating: 5.8
Very fun line, although a bit awkward in places. The loose blocks didn't seem to be much of a problem when I was up there, as long as you are careful about what you yard on. Fun stemming on the first pitch and an interesting corner system on the second.
I do have a question for those more experienced climbers out there...there is a short offwidth variation at the start of the 3rd pitch. I know it's not on-route because it was not 5.6. I tried leading it but bailed because I couldn't protect it (the largest thing I had was a #3), and then tried lowering off and doing it on a top rope. I came close to nailing it, but couldn't pull the top section, which I felt to be somewhere in the 11's (vaguely). It involved some nice stemming down low, great arm bars and jams which left my elbows and forearms skinless, and at the top, an overhung fist jamming extravaganza. Has anybody done/seen this crack or know what it goes at? It reminded me somewhat of The Fox, except much shorter and overhung, and maybe a bit wider.
Thanks a lot.
By vegastradguy From: Henderson, NV Apr 30, 2007 rating: 5.8
You can do this route in three pitches with a 60m rope- on the 2nd pitch, continue past the monster ledge to a smaller ledge with a tree about 50' above. This makes the 2nd pitch a 190' pitch and then the 3rd and final pitch about 185'.