BETA PHOTO: The Red and the Black follows the crack system on ...
Description
Start in the middle of the red slabs, 80 yds left of a huge left-facing corner at a crack system.
P1 follows a crack system up to a belay at a bush. This pitch has the best gear of all 3 pitches, which is not saying much. There is crumbly loose rock. The belay is marked by a small bush and marginal small placements in a crack. 5.7 130 ft.
P2 continues above for 130 ft. This pitch is marked by loose/crumbly rock for pro and runout slabs. There is a huge detached flake that I had to stand to move up face. Belay 20 ft under a ceiling with some large hexes and #2 or #3 Camalot in a flake. 5-6 140 ft. Swain's guide did not give it an R but it is runout for 50 ft on slabs in one section.
P3 continues through roof section with another roof to follow 40 ft up, then 100 ft of slab climbing with a few marginal gear placements in crumbly rock. 5.5R 165 ft. Belay at a tree.
Descent: Traverse left and up to a slung tree above Real Domestic Chickens. Double-rope rappel to top anchor of Real Domestic Chickens. 2 more double-rope rappels to the ground.
Protection
Standard Rack. Take some of the largest hexes for the anchor of p2. A #4 Camalot could come in handy. p1 anchor is a bush and marginal small pieces. p3 is a tree. 2 ropes to rappel.
The Slippery Peak Apron is in a really great setting; upper First Creek Canyon is spectacular. When we were there, the springs and the creek were full of water and the brush was so thick it was like we were in a jungle. Unfortunately, this particular climb doesn't have much to recommend it, unless you're looking for an adventure of easy climbing with very bad pro. The tiny, dying bush that is slung at the first belay is truly terrifying. The other climbs on the Apron might be worth a try. Real Domestic Chickens looks excellent, but is definitely a friction slab with traditionally spaced (read: runout) bolts.
The climbing was fairly good, but the pro on the upper half of the route was not so good. I thought the 3rd pitch was definitely the scariest. Although fairly easy, the second roof on the 3rd pitch is committing knowing that the 3 pieces below you are probably going to blow if you fall.
Real Domestic Chickens did look good, but there is certainly the chance of taking a 50-60 foot slab fall if you fall near the anchors at the top of the first pitch.
Slippery Peak
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