Looking down the first pitch of Black Magic from j...
Description
A nice route to combine with Lotta Balls, we thought it was just as good. Begin about 40ft right of Lotta Balls, at a sharp flake.P1-150ft. Climb the flake and then pass 2 bolts, heading right at the 2nd bolt into a thin crack. Climb the crack and face to belay at a single bolt (and gear in crack, or cool natural thread).P2-140ft. Straight up the crack and face to a 2 bolt anchor. Easier pitch, but a bit runout in places.P3-140ft. Avoid getting suckered into the left crack system by the fixed tcu (ruined, not booty). Instead go right from the belay into a crack with better protection and a more direct line. Address the roof above by blindly stepping right when up seems too hard. Voila! Find a welcome bolt and fire straight up and belay at bushes.P4-140ft. Climb easy white rock to the top. Descend as for Lotta Balls, down the gully to the climbers left, including rappels.
By John Wilder From: Las Vegas, NV Mar 22, 2007 rating: 5.8+
On March 23rd, 2007, the ASCA replaced 4 protection bolts on this route. Three on the first pitch and one on the third pitch. The first bolt is 1/2" stainless, the next two are 3/8" stainless, and the final bolt is 1/2" non-stainless. Thanks to Greg Barnes for the replacement effort.
The reason the final bolt is non-stainless is that it's extra long - 3.75". Those bolts are not made in that length in stainless (2.75" or 4.75" only). The original bolt was not rusted at all, and with softer sandstone the water evaporates through the rock anyway, so it should be fine for quite some time!
The original bolt on the 5.6 variation (the huge left traverse) is bad, and rusty as well since it's in a water streak. We did not replace that one since that variation is rarely done (and my arm was tired!).
Careful with those pebbles on the second pitch -- I busted one off 20 ft out on lead. Spicy!
By GMBurns From: Santiago, Chile Mar 2, 2010 rating: 5.7+ PG13
Intimidating at first, but moves are pretty easy for the grade. P1 is long.
By Matt McMurray From: Castle Rock, CO Mar 29, 2010 rating: 5.8
I highly suggest leading directly up the dihedral under the small roof at the start of the route rather than going up left and then traversing back right after the bolts (as the chalk misleads you). This is maybe a grade more difficult, but WAY better movement.
MM
By Top Rope Hero From: Denver/Aspen Mar 31, 2010 rating: 5.8
Wish I had tried McMurray's direct line. As it is, the enterprising leader could protect the reachy/stemmy opening moves without the bolts (but with some balls)and turn this into a truer trad masterpiece. (Full disclosure: I clipped the bolts.)
The airy P3 could also have it's bolt skipped for a PG runout move above the bulge. Exposed but very manageable for the grade.
Fun climb. Better than Lotta Balls.
Flash this and do a lap on Lotta Balls for a fun, low-commitment, close-to-the-road 1000ft day of 5.7 and 5.8.
By Chris Owen Administrator From: La Crescenta, CA Apr 18, 2010
Classic route.
The moves on the first pitch are wonderful, athletic and improbable, but great holds always show up when needed. The big face pitch is an adventure, and though easy, risk mitigation is a little harder to come by than hoped for. Pitch three is massively thrilling, an intimidating lead but all there.
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