Mountain Project: Climbing Red Rock

Submitted By: Mike Morley on Feb 16, 2004
Administrator: Larry DeAngelo
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Description

First Creek is home to the excellent trad climbing on the Lotta Balls Wall. Since it is located outside the gated part of the RRNCA, climbers wanting an early start can have it here. The walk to the Lotta Balls Wall takes the better part of an hour. There are other routes deeper in the canyon, and this is also a good place to start for some of the big routes on the southern part of Mount Wilson.

Getting There

Drive south on Route 159 from the area of the Visitor Center. Continue south past the exit from the scenic loop road for another two or three miles to the clearly marked First Creek Trailhead. Park here and follow the trail west into the mouth of the canyon.

The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for First Creek Canyon:

Rising Moons 5.5 PG13 Trad, 3 pitches, 380 feet First Creek Slabs

Doobie Dance 5.6 Trad, 1 pitch, 90 feet Romper Room

Algae on Parade 5.7 Trad, 3 pitches, 600 feet Romper Room

Romper Room 5.7 Trad, 1 pitch, 90 feet Romper Room

Sunset Slab 5.7 Trad, 7 pitches, 1000 feet, Grade III First Creek Slabs

Lady Luck 5.7 Trad, 7 pitches, 1000 feet, Grade III First Creek Slabs

Kindergarten Cop 5.7+ Trad, 1 pitch, 150 feet Romper Room

Hot Flash 5.8 Trad, 10 pitches, 1200 feet, Grade III First Creek Slabs

Black Magic 5.8 Trad, 4 pitches, 580 feet Lotta Balls Wall

Lotta Balls 5.8 Trad, 3 pitches, 420 feet, Grade II Lotta Balls Wall

Trihardral 5.8 , 4 pitches, 400 feet, Grade II Lotta Balls Wall

Bruja's Brew 5.9 Trad, 4 pitches, 400 feet, Grade II Lotta Balls Wall

Rob Roy 5.10b Trad, 1 pitch, 150 feet Alcohol Wall

Gin Ricky 5.10c Trad, 1 pitch, 180 feet Alcohol Wall

Featured Route For First Creek Canyon

Looking down the first pitch of Black Magic from just past the traverse.

Black Magic 5.8 NV : Red Rock : ... : Lotta Balls Wall

A nice route to combine with Lotta Balls, we thought it was just as good. Begin about 40ft right of Lotta Balls, at a sharp flake.P1-150ft. Climb the flake and then pass 2 bolts, heading right at the 2nd bolt into a thin crack. Climb the crack and face to belay at a single bolt (and gear in crack, or cool natural thread).P2-140ft. Straight up the crack and face to a 2 bolt anchor. Easier pitch, but a bit runout in places.P3-140ft. Avoid getting s...[more] Browse More Classics in NV

Photos of First Creek Canyon

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Cool rocks up First Creek.	The view of First Creek Canyon by morning light fr...	A Bighorn Sheep, and Lotta Balls Wall. Taken 7/11...
Waterfall on First Creek. July 2007.	Waterfall on First Creek. August 2005.	BETA PHOTO: First Creek Walls
Looking north from the hike in. Bridge Mtn and So...

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