Gold Bikini & Cinnamon Bun Hairdo 

FA:  Todd Swain & Patty Gill Type:  Trad Consensus:  5.10- [details] Length:  1 pitch, 80 feet Views: 203 page views Submitted By: 46and2 on Apr 15, 2007 Add Photo  Add Comment

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Just past the one bolt and into the double thin cr...

Description 

Surprisingly fun route with great moves and lots of varied climbing. This would be a pretty serious lead with some THIN gear placements. Starts with a boulder problem type start then moves left to the twin thin cracks/seams to the top of the cliff.

Location 

This route is about 20 feet to the right of Shallow Fried Cracken and is easy to spot as it is the only climb with a bolt on this entire wall; start on the steep face under the bolt.

Protection 

There is one bolt with a bad unrated hanger about 15 feet up from the start of the climb. Then use some really thin gear and follow the thin cracks to the top. Take some gear and you can build an anchor off the large blocks on top of the climb. Walk off left as per "Aliens Have Landed". This climb is pretty easy to set up as a top rope!!

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Right at the crux; this route is steeper...