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Cannibal Crag
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Caustic Cock 

5.11b

   

FA: Paul Van Betten, Dan Kruleski, Shelby Shelton, Richard Harrison, Sal Mamusia (1991)
Type: Sport
Consensus: 5.11b [details]
Length: 1 pitch, 40 feet
Views: 836 page views

Submitted By: Ian Wolfe on Apr 29, 2006


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Ian Wolfe pulling the crux moves on Caustic Cock. ...


Description 

This route follows the stunning arete feature on the NE side of the Cannibal Boulder. Easy climbing up to the second bolt, where the real fun begins. From here it gets steep and interesting. The crux begins after the third bolt is clipped and includes a few desparate moves to surmount the cock, and a very desparate and kind of scary clip for the 4th bolt. From there, a few airy crimpers lead up to bolted anchors.

This is a wonderful spot to get good climbing shots from the ground if you are a photographer. The arete stands out against the skyline from both sides and the overhanging line looks absolutely awesome. Be sure to bring your core face for the onlookers who frequent the area!


Protection 

4 draws to clip pro with, and 2 more for the anchor at the top.



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By Matt McMurray
From: Castle Rock, CO
Jun 18, 2006
rating: 5.11b

Someone placed a "new" bolt at the bottom of the route. Climbers used to have a runout to get to the first bolt, starting the nerves before the real fun even began. =)

Edit: I agree with Gary, in that on such a popular route the added bolt down low has certainly saved some injuries.

By Zach Allen
Sep 8, 2006

A local told me that there was originally a bolt there, but it was chopped because of its proximity to a faint petroglyph. The bolt occasionally reappears and is chopped again.

By Gary Savage
From: Las Vegas, NV
Mar 15, 2007

I asked Paul before I replaced the bolt. Now you don't have to go to the hospital if a hand hold breaks.

By Dave Daly
From: Temecula, CA
Aug 21, 2007

Gary.....thanks for adding that bolt, otherwise I would have not considered leading this one. Great route.....pummmmmmmpy!

By Boissal
Jan 2, 2008
rating: 5.11a/b

Would be hairy without the 1st bolt. The book mentions a TCU placement, not sure where it would go... The crux is quite pumpy, especially if you try to clip the 4th bolt from down low. Sack up and gun for the jugs, the fall is clean. The top has fixed sport anchors now, only 4 draws required for the route.