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Moderate Mecca
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5.10b

   

FA: Mike Ward 1991
Type: Sport
Consensus: 5.10c [details]
Length: 1 pitch, 80 feet
Season: All except summer
Views: 527 page views

Submitted By: Karsten on Jan 28, 2006


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Karsten in side view on Side Effects.


Description 

This sporty route climbs a short crack and then huecos up a large detached boulder that guards the entrance to Moderate Mecca.

The lower crack could be protected by natural gear but contains several bolts. I would recommend unclipping the first bolt after passing it to reduce drag. This climb is almost a one move wonder but the rest of the climbing is so good you don't care. Overall this climb present a fun jaunt.


Protection 

7 bolts
Chains at top



Add Photo Photos of Side Effects
Karsten tops out on the only small holds on the route

Karsten tops out on the only small holds on the ro...

Patrick Hudson throws the crux move on a chilly day.

Patrick Hudson throws the crux move on a chilly da...


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By Matt McMurray
From: Castle Rock, CO
Aug 7, 2006
rating: 5.10b/c

I thought this route was great fun. Following a well-protected dyno in the middle, the overhanging huecos make for a great climb! If you climb too slowly, the pump will catch you before the top...

By Robbie the Dog
Dec 31, 2007

This climb was fun, but a little more than average dirty/crumbly towards the middle and top.

By vegastradguy
From: Henderson, NV
Jan 13, 2008
rating: 5.10d

first of all, .10b this isn't- its .10d for sure. Second, whats with the weird non-finish? The anchors are essentially reached from the ledge below, despite the headwall thats easily climbed between. weird. good route, though. the less than bold may want a yellow alien or purple camalot to protect the first 15' or so.