BETA PHOTO: Dickies Cliff & Gnat Man Crag looking SW
Description
A bulge crux leads to pumpy terrain.
This classic crack is on the right side of Dickies Cliff. Head up easy terrain to a steep crack with an initial roof. Throw in some pro and some jams to negotiate the roof. Above the roof you will find a steep crack with good pro, good jams, and good edges. Near the top the climbing eases off. I think this climb is about 80 feet high.
Descent: Head right / west and 4th class down the gullies on the right side of the cliff. The third narrow gully on climbers right seemed easiest, but be careful.
Protection
Standard rack to #4 Camalot. A #4 is perfect for protecting the roof. Use medium cams for the anchor (no bolt anchor).
I imagine the route name was inspired by a nearby route called "Stukas Over Disneyland." The Stuka was a German dive-bomber in World War II, so this presents a rather bizarre image for "the happiest place on earth." The Lancaster was a British bomber of the period that would presumably wreak similar havoc in an attack on the Luxor (the pyramidal resort hotel on the Strip).
By vegastradguy From: Henderson, NV Jun 25, 2005 rating: 5.9+
This is a really good route, probably the best moderate on the two cliffs (Dickies and Gnat Man)- great jams througha bulge and then fun climbing to the top.
Take a standard rack- but do not forget a 4" cam, or you'll hose yourself using a smaller one at the crux.
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