Bottoms up 

FA:  George & Catriona Reid, Todd & Donette Swain; October 1994. Type:  Trad Consensus:  5.7+ [details] Length:  120 feet Views: 611 page views Submitted By: Randy Carmichael on Oct 29, 2004 Add Photo  Add Comment

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BETA PHOTO: Dickies Cliff & Gnat Man Crag looking SW

Description 

Good crack, good pro, spicy crux (for 5.7 anyway).

Bottoms Up is the well defined left-facing crack located on the right side of Gnat Man Crag. Negotiate a tricky start in a clean corner, then head up the classic crack, place some good pro below the bulge and head left and up to the next crack. Follow the 2nd crack as it angles right. Setup an anchor after the rock angle eases.

The bulge is definitely the mental crux, because there isn't any pro until you reach the 2nd crack.

I think this climb is about 120 feet high.

Descent: Head right/west until you find easy 3rd class terrain to scramble back to the valley floor. It is possible to down climb into the same narrow gully used on the approach, but this involves 4th class down climbing. In any event, you will need to re-climb the same 4th class approach you initially used to get back to the base of Gnat Man Crag and your packs.

Protection 

Standard rack up to a #3 Camalot.

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BETA PHOTO: bottoms up