This climb is so-so, but at least it's engaging. Not something you'll likely forget if you are pushing 5.8 leads from the low end. This may be one of the better routes at Moderate Mecca, but is not a destination climb for Red Rocks.
To find Fleet Street, first locate Scalawag. Starting from the left end of Moderate Mecca's Left side, walk back to the right to find an obvious roof crack with hands-to-off-hands jams and a few holds above the lip; this is Scalawag. Perhaps 2-3 meters still further right is a second crack system that climbs out and round the roof's right side, which is Muckraker.
Fleet Street is the relatively low-angle face just right of Muckraker. Some distance up there is a bolt, and some distance above that one, a second bolt. The climbing continues on small sloping holds, and although not difficult, is insecure. As well, the sparse protection reminds you that it's best to be careful here. Climb upward and onward, occasionally encountering a shallow crack until a ledge is reached. Rap from an anchor on that ledge 90' back to the ground. A 60M rope may be necessary unless you go to a different anchor. Take care.
Protection
The Swain book suggests carrying some stoppers to supplement the 2 bolts on this route. As I recall it, I did so and didn't get anything I thought was very worthy. I'd suggest that this route be taken somewhat seriously.
The first bolt has a "hanger" made of an old sawn-off soft iron ring piton with a hole drilled in the blade.
The other bolt has a BROKEN cold shut for a hanger.
Strange, because the bolts themselves seem new.
By 46and2 From: Las Vegas, NV Nov 22, 2006 rating: 5.8+ R
The last post and route description are spot on! I would NOT recommend leading this thing as the bolts are crap and the moves surprisingly stout for the grade, especially when considering the run-out and don't count on any good gear placements. Better to TR from Abbey Road anchors.
yeah the bolts are pretty poor. I was all over the route looking for the 5.8 move, but could not find it. maybe it felt easier on top rope. i certainly would not want to lead it.
This route has its own title for me...worst route I've ever led! Weather deteriorated into wind and rain, making 5.8 seem questionable, the bolts were two outstanding examples of Todd Swain's utter disregard for the hot climber chicks he might be putting in traction by his shoddy engineering and mishmash of unsafe bolts-what a waste of vastly cute girls, Todd. I wouldn't wish the bolts on this on the guys who are still chipping limestone around here-they're just terrible. If you're leading this, you're soloing, so be warned.
By vegastradguy From: Henderson, NV Jan 13, 2008 rating: 5.8 R
interestingly, there's a pair of shiny new bolts at the top of this route (and Abbey Road), but the person who put them in didnt think to replaced the mank on this route. I've led some sketchy 5.8's, but I wouldnt bother with this one, just TR it after soloing Abbey- this route is definitely not worth dying for.
Moderate Mecca
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