Tony Bubb leads up the roof on 'Scalawag' (10) on ...
Description
The gymnastics of this climb are nice, and it is well-protected and fun, but is not a standout at red rocks. It's slightly dirty and sharp nature, as well as it's one-move-wonderness prevent this from being a destination climb.
To find Scalawag, starting from the left end of Moderate Mecca's Left side, then walk back to the right to find an obvious roof crack with hands-to-off-hands jams and a few holds above the lip. Climb up under a large roof and work out on the left side wall, stemming and protecting overhead all the while, before launching into the roof moves, which go horizontal. Pull the lip and pro again, then wander up the lower angle face on a shallow crack system.
The anchors at the top are for rapping, but if you protected before the roof, lowing off might trash your rope. As well, if your second hang-dogs before cleaning under the roof, it will hack your rope.
Protection
A rack of stoppers and cams including doubles from 2" - 3.5"
I have to disagree with the route posters assesment of this climb (and actually, the entire area). Scalawag is sort of a one move wonder, to be sure, but the climbing up to the move is fairly stout and a fall would certainly put you on the deck. The rack mentioned is probably excessive. A #2 and a #3 camalot suffice below the roof and then above, a couple of smallish pieces along with a few stoppers and an alien or two make your anchor.
A single 60m rope gets you back to the deck.
Overall, the climbing is pleasant and quite good, in my opinion. definitely not a climb to miss if you're a 5.9 climber with some muscle.
By Karsten From: Reno, NV Jan 28, 2006 rating: 5.10+
I agree with tradguy on the muscle. The roof is very protectable. I would add the inclusion of a 3.5 inch piece however.
Moderate Mecca
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