Some more info: as of Jan 07, almost all of the routes at this formation have anchors. The only exceptions would be the two wide cracks on the west side (.9, .11). Also, theres a sport route just right of Atman that checks in about .11-. Beware, the bolts are glue-ins and it looks like someomes first attempt with them.
Was up at Yin Yang today... I don't know who put in the glue-ins but they look a little sketchy. There are globs of phlem yellow glue hanging out of the bolt holes. There is no doubt in my mind that this was someone's first attempt at glue-ins. Too bad they had to experiment at such a nice little area.
I'd suggest backing up these bolts for awhile until we see whether the installer knew what he was doing or not...
This cliff has recieved an unneccessary "makeover" recently. I counted fourteen bolts on this cliff a couple of months ago, and this is before the lead bolts went in on the "sport routes". These were existing, already established toprope routes with solid, accessible gear anchors. The idea was that anyone climbing at this cliff had gear with them, as this is a traditional, bolt-free trad cliff. Someone decided to change that, I'm sure in some kind of public service oriented spirit, but seeing a botched, sticking 2/3 out glue in three inches from the crack I've plugged cams into for two years, on a 30' cliff with a one minute walkoff, just sickens me. It's not progress, the word from the rangers is that it's totally illegal to bolt on that cliff, and my feeling on it is that the sooner those things make their way to join disco in the dustbin of history, the better. If you chop these botched bolts, let me know and I'll buy the beers at Tenaya Creek to celebrate. If I had the gear to do it correctly myself, they'd already be gone. Hatemail and/or support to Killischoward@hotmail.com.
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