BETA PHOTO: Cannibal Crag, with two climbers on top.
Description
The Cannibal Crag is a gigantic boulder located near Red Spring. Cannibal has a total of 19 routes and is usually shaded. The routes at Cannibal Crag range from 5.6 to 5.12d, making this area popular with groups who have varying levels of ability. The routes described start on the western side, continuing around to the north and then to the eastern face, ending with the overhanging southern side. The approach time is about five to ten minutes. When you arrive at the boulder from the approach trail, you will be facing the northern side.
[Reprinted with permission from Jed Botsford, Climbing Ranger - RRCNCA]
This climb starts off same start as Wonderstuff but traverse right on slopey rail over to second bolt, then straight up "bee-hive" looking rock (cruxy) to big moves on jugs. Best route at Cannibal. ...[more]
There's a new, large paved parking lot for the Red Springs picnic area which I believe is where people are being encouraged to park to approach climbs in this area. It was about a five minute walk from that lot to Cannibal Boulder. The lot is quite fancy and the turnoff can't be missed when driving up Calico Basin Road.
The Red Spring parking is fine unless you're planning to hang around until/after sundown. At that point, they can ticket/lock the gate and that might not help you out too much. For later sessions at calico, the traditional corner parking is better.
Cannibal Crag
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