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Black Velvet Wall
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
American Flesh Dance (Combination of The Flesh plus American Ghost Dance) T 
Ancient Futures T 
Cutting Edge T 
Dream of Wild Turkeys T 
Epinephrine T 
Fiddler on the Roof T,S 
Gobbler, The T 
I'm Not Worthy T 
Johnny Come Lately S 
Lone Star T 
My Little Pony T 
Overhanging Hangover T 
Prince of Darkness T,S 
Refried Brains T 
Rock Warrior T 
Sandstone Samurai T 
Smooth as Silk T 
Sour Mash T 
Spark Plug T 
Steel Monkey T 
Texanephrine T 
Texas Hold 'Em T 
Texas Tower Direct T 
Velveeta T 
Velvet Tongue, The T 
Yellow Brick Road T,S 

Texas Hold 'Em 

YDS: 5.11c French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 24 British: E4 6a

   
Type:  Trad, 9 pitches, 1100'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11c French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 24 British: E4 6a [details]
FA: John Rosholt & Bob Conz - June, 1997
Page Views: 8,180
Submitted By: Josh Janes on Apr 30, 2008

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BETA PHOTO: Texas Hold 'Em

Description 

An engaging, awesome route. Each pitch is progressively better making this one of the best climbs in Black Velvet.

Begin 100' right of the start of Epinephrine.

P1, P2, P3: Scramble 50' up and left across 5.0 ledges just left of a huge, hanging left-facing dihedral high above. Optional Belay on a large ledge with lots of bushes, otherwise: scramble left through the bushes to a small left-facing corner, up this and then traverse back right across a slab to a higher, small, left-facing corner/arete. Up this, passing a bolt, and continue more easily to a great belay ledge with bolted anchor. 130' to this point and a good place to stop and belay. From here, continue up the slab above, then diagonal rightwards across the slab (#2 or #3 Camalots in horizontals, and higher a thread) until reaching the previously mentioned huge, hanging left-facing dihedral just above a tree. Climb this to near it's top where there is a bolt up and left and another one up and right (the righthand one is situated above a shelf. Either way goes, but I find the righthand variation both easier and more direct. Belay just above at a good ledge with a bolted anchor. 260' to this point. Continue up the left-facing corner right of the belay to a huge, bushy terrace. Cut right through the bushes and belay on gear below a water-polished groove/crack feature at the right end of the terrace. 400' to this point and most of the climbing on these pitches checks in at 5.8.

P4: Follow the groove up and left, taking either a slot or a handcrack and passing (or stopping at) a couple bolted anchors, to a gear belay on a good ledge. 150', 5.8.

P5: Climb up through the roof with a few wide-hands moves to a stance, then continue up the spectacular, exposed crack system past 3 bolts to a bolted belay on a big ledge just below the top of Texas Tower. 180', 5.10.

P6: There are two left-trending crack systems above. Begin up the right of the two, then traverse to the left crack about 50' up. Follow this to a bolted belay way left of the line. You can link this into the next pitch but the rope drag through the crux is heinous. 100', 5.9. Alternatively, you can stay in the right-hand crack at awesome 5.12 with one move of aid past a small roof midway up. This variation has several bolts and joins up with the following pitch near the end. 140', 5.12.

P7: Perform a bouldery move off the belay, then climb up an easy corner to a bolt. Hand traverse right to a pumpy clip and stand up on a sloping ledge. Follow this up to a small roof (bolt over the roof) and climb up into the left-facing corner above, clipping a couple bolts along the way to a bolted belay below an obvious V-slot. 100', 5.11c.

P8: Climb the V-slot (two bolts protect) to a cruxy traverse/downclimb at a bolt, then more V-slot action up to a bolted belay at a stance. 100', 5.11b.

P9: I won't spoil it all by giving away the last pitch, but from here the route is obvious. If you're rapping, make sure to fix your tag line to the previous belay or you will be dangling in space. Otherwise, continue on with Lone Star. 140', 5.10.

Rappel the route with two ropes.

Protection 

Single 0.3, 0.4, 0.5 Camalots, Double 0.75, #1, #2, and #3 Camalots (the second #2 and #3's are optional for confident Creek climbers). Wires. A dozen draws/slings. Two ropes.


Photos of Texas Hold 'Em Slideshow Add Photo
Ryan Strong on the pitch 6 step across move. Drama...
Ryan Strong on the pitch 6 step across move. Drama...
Andy enjoying splitter crack on Texas Hold Em.
Andy enjoying splitter crack on Texas Hold Em.
Andy Hansen cleaning up the exposed last pitch of ...
Andy Hansen cleaning up the exposed last pitch of ...
Psyched for flares on P8 of Texas Hold'em
Psyched for flares on P8 of Texas Hold'em
Mike on pitch 6 (10a) of Texas Hold Em.
Mike on pitch 6 (10a) of Texas Hold Em.
Darren on first pitch (5.8) of Texas Hold Em. phot...
Darren on first pitch (5.8) of Texas Hold Em. phot...
Darren on the Panhandle Crack, pitch 5 (10d) Texas...
Darren on the Panhandle Crack, pitch 5 (10d) Texas...
Looking up at the last pitch of Texas Hold Em. Spe...
Looking up at the last pitch of Texas Hold Em. Spe...
Mike on Pitch 6 (10a) of Texas Hold Em.
Mike on Pitch 6 (10a) of Texas Hold Em.
A wet Texas Hold Em, Black Velvet Wall.
BETA PHOTO: A wet Texas Hold Em, Black Velvet Wall.
One of the coolest pitches I've ever climbed! Pitc...
One of the coolest pitches I've ever climbed! Pitc...
Mike on pitch 2(5.9) Of Texas Hold Em.
Mike on pitch 2(5.9) Of Texas Hold Em.
Fun rappel off of Texas Hold 'Em
Fun rappel off of Texas Hold 'Em
Ken Kreis on pitch 5
Ken Kreis on pitch 5
B. Davidson on the final few moves of the spectacu...
B. Davidson on the final few moves of the spectacu...

Comments on Texas Hold 'Em Add Comment
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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Nov 7, 2013
By David Stowe
May 2, 2008

If you rap this route and need to fix the tag line to the 2nd to last belay, does that mean if you are climbing with double you should fix one of them to that belay and have the second follow the last pitch on only one rope?
By Iole
Sep 24, 2008

Sure Hold ‘em is the most popular poker! As you stated in your words, hold ‘em is still not that easy to master, perhaps it will take quite a long time, 10 years? Or life time?


Visit : Raibet
By Darren in Vegas
From: Las Vegas, NV
Nov 22, 2009

According to local lore, the pitch 6 "variation" (12b, AO) was the original route put up by Conz and Rosholt. Even after repeated attempts it would not go free for them. Apparently other local hardmen have tried to free this pitch, to no avail. Conz reportedly does not know who is responsible for the pitch 7 (5.11c) variation. This variation to the route, which is now the more commonly attempted way, is accessed by climbing a pitch of the Texas Tower connection, which is pitch 6 in the description above.
By John Wilder
From: Las Vegas, NV
Jan 13, 2010

After reading the route description above, I thought I'd do a little clarifying on the first three pitches.

Start a ways right of Epi's bolted start (actually, start at the 4th class start for Epi if you're familiar with it) just left of a massive dihedral.

Pitch 1: Climb up and right into the dihedral, following it to the roof- just after the roof, traverse left through some bushes to a bolted belay. 120', 5.8ish

Pitch 2: Climb straight up the face, following the path of least resistance, aiming for the dihedral above. Follow the dihedral up for about 50' before clipping a bolt on the right wall of the dihedral, then traversing right through a weakness, then climb straight up to a bolted belay. 160', 5.9ish

Pitch 3: Traverse right to the obvious (and short) blocky dihedral, ascend to the top, then traverse right about 100' to the base of a varnished dihedral and belay. 125', 5.8ish.

From here, you'll be below the right side of the Texas Flake and can ascend almost any of the several routes above- although I believe the other routes may have separate starts.
By Brady Robinson
Mar 20, 2010
rating: 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a

There is a loose hold at the top of the 7th pitch. It is a good bucket straight down but don't pull out on it or you'll send a rock the size of a large grapefruit to the bottom of the canyon. Great route by the way!
By blakeherrington
Apr 2, 2011

Brady's loose hold is gone now, trundled by surprise...
By Sol Wertkin
Apr 15, 2011

Trip Report-3/28/11
By Cultivating Mass
Oct 31, 2011

Sick TR+photos, Sol. Nice work, boys!
By nicholas bujak
Oct 9, 2012

Sandbagged for the grade. Texas hold'em last pitch was hard for 10d and the 10a and 10b pitches on Lonestar above felt much harder than 10-. Maybe I was having a bad day but I TR sent the 11c final pitch on Cloud Tower the next day but could not come close to even attempting to sen the 10d Texas Hold'em pitch. Lonestar was a great linkup.
By Andy Hansen
From: Longmont, Colorado
Apr 7, 2013
rating: 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a

Pretty damn classic route! Josh's rack is right on but I definitely though having the 2nd #2 and #3 Camalots was beneficial. The cruxes are surprisingly deceptive and well protected by fat bolts. Pitch Breakdown: P1, 120' 5.8+ P2, 150' 5.9+ P3, 120' 5.6 P4, 160' 5.8 P5, 180' 5.10c P6, 100' 5.10a P7, 100' 5.11b P8, 90' 5.11c P9, 110' 5.11a

A fantastic route up an intimidatingly steep wall! A RR classic!
By earl mcalister
From: idaho
Oct 24, 2013

As someone who has climbed a lot at indian creek, i think having only 2 gold camalots makes the final pitch quite runout, especially after several prior pitches of dificult climbing to pump you out. 3 would make it much more sane and enjoyable. As of october 2013 there was a fixed yellow link cam on othis pitch that saved by butt. Good route overall. Varied and challenging but safe.
By Rob Fielding
From: Las Vegas, NV
Nov 7, 2013

We brought 3 #2's for the last pitch which seemed perfect with the fixed gear. We also brought some smaller cams which we used quite a bit. The bolts on the 5th pitch could use some future replacement, but there is some gear to the right in a flake system.