Cole Essence takes the aesthetic hanging dihedral just right of Triassic Sands and just left of the Archaeopteryx arete. It is a left-facing, tiger-striped corner with no apparent gear. There is gear, but be willing to do crux climbing above it.
Begin by doing a short pitch up to a big ledge. Take the first pitch of Triassic (5.7), or take cracks on the face just right. From a belay on this ledge, launch up the corner past a few good stances and good gear placements to a cruxy section of gaston palm-smearing on a weird rib of rock on the left wall. If all goes well you'll end up in a chimney position, back to the corner, with a no-hands rest. Continue chimneying up to a timely overhead TCU placement, and pull into a lieback. Climb as high up into the corner as possible (until the holds disappear), and stab the right foot out to a fortuitous notch on the righthand arete. Swing out of the corner and around the arete to clip an anchor, recently upgraded by the ASCA. With a 70m you can lower off all the way to the ground.
probably not so proud for josh. considering the crazy stuff that guys done, i would speculate this route was a walk in the park. and this route is closer to g-rated than pg.
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