An inspired linkup of Scumby 5.8, Desert Crack 5.12D, and Desert Reality 11c. Classic route with a spectrum of desert climbing situations: chossy sugar cookie face and crack leads to a bolt protecting a circuitous traverse into a steep splitter defined by an overhanging ringlock crux to a 14-foot widening perfect hand crack roof. If it gets any better than this, I wanna know where!
Location
The Monument is the triangular buttress comprising the right entrance to Black Velvet Canyon. Desert Gold is the striking cobra-shaped scar with a prominent roof crack. The route often appears orangish-gold to cream colored and contrasts the rock around it. Two gullies border the route on either side. Approach via faint trail that crosses multiple washes-few cairns, tread lightly please!
Protection
5.8 varied: Std rack, 12D splitter:1 QD, 1-2 .4 camalot, 1.5 Friend for crux, red/black metolius above (#1 camalot is a little too big where you need it), 11c splitter: #2 & #3 Camalot. Slung top anchor, 1 bolt to lower off top of 12D crack, and chain anchor above 5.8 pitch. Most clean by downclimbing the roof crack and lowering to chains from bolt above 12D pitch.
Some might enjoy this random fact-Richard Harrison told me that Yaniro soloed this thing with the aid of a circus net for a video project. The story goes, Yaniro was helped by R. Grandstaff & co. to throw in a couple of bolts both to the left and right so the net could be secured. Hard to believe, but while resting at the stance before traversing into the business, I spotted a couple of old chopped bolts right where they were supposed to be. Wacky. Also, if you head up to do this route and are wondering about the two old homemade bolts on the left just under the roof-those were used to approach the roof pitch for the FA-which was completed independently before the finger crack.
Yes but it's kind of a pain. Aiding the finger crack is probably easier I don't understand the recommendation to downlead the roof crack. You can walk off the top, there is a rap anchor up there a ways.
RSS Feed
Slideshow
