Just to the right of the S-shaped crack of Lazy Buttress, there is a ramp leading up and to the right.
Pitch 1: Easy climbing leads up the ramp, past an unnecessary belay station to a left-facing dihedral. Climb the dihedral, passing another unnecessary bolt, and belay at its top.
Pitch 2: Climb up about fifteen feet to a slightly bulging headwall. A 5.7 move over the overhang leads to beautiful and easy face climbing. The knobby face leads upward to two overhangs. The easiest route passes the lower overhang on the left and continues up the slab to a good belay ledge. This pitch is almost 60 meters in length. (The higher overhang has harder climbing and less protection.)
Pitch 3: Either go straight up on easy climbing to Lovers' Ledge, or bear to the left and join the Lazy Buttress where it goes over the 5.6 overhang.
By vegastradguy From: Henderson, NV Aug 13, 2005 rating: 5.7+
This is a pretty good route. The bolt in the dihedral is indeed unnecessary, and more to the point, it is difficult to clip- not even sure why it was placed there. Although the roof on the second pitch looks intimidating, the moves and holds are positive. Make sure to sling your pro quite long here, lest rope drag stop you in the middle of the unprotected (yet easy) climbing above.
I used the dihedral bolt to bail off after re-leading part way to retrieve a stuck rope. Rope got stuck right across from that bolt twice. I figured that's what it was there for :). I just love the three different descriptions and ratings for this climb (Supertopo, Brock, here)!
Whiskey Peak - East
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