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Frogland 

5.8

   

FA: George & Joanne Urioste, Mike Gilbert
Type: Trad
Consensus: 5.8 [details]
Length: 6 pitches, 700 feet
Views: 4,530 page views

Submitted By: Scott Conner on Mar 10, 2001


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A pic of the really nice fourth pitch of Frogland....


Description 

A great route! And VERY popular. Start early.

For the approach, take the trail that skirts the pink cliff band on the left. Work your way around the cliff band and to the right. Look for a huge roof capping a large slab and make your way to the crack on the right side of this feature. Scramble up a few 4th-class sections to the a nice terrace and the beginning of a LF corner/crack that has a few bolts (why?)...

P1: 5.7, 150' Climb a crack in a block (awkward) to gain the left-facing corner/crack. Climb this for a nice long pitch and belay on the second of two big ledges. Tree anchor.

P2: 5.7, 150' Work right from the belay and climb a lower-angle crack in a LF corner to a ledge. From here (a) Make a few exciting moves out left and up a crack to another ledge. Or (b) continue straight up through a wide overhanging flake/crack section to a small ledge.

P3: 5.6, 100' Work out left into a nice right-facing dihedral, up this, then out right through a small overhang and belay at the base of an obtuse corner with some thin face moves to the right.

The next 3 pitches are PG so be ready for some spice!

P4: 5.8, 140' Climb out left of the thin corner on small edges and thin pro. Gain a decent crack that climbs up to the right side of the giant roof clipping an old pin along the way. Check out the slabby leftward traverse under the roof which marks the crux of the route. Make the delicate moves across to a thin crack and up about 40' to a small belay stance that takes 1.5-3" gear. Awesome!

P5: 5.8, 130' Make some PG face moves up to a bolt. Climb up left to a huge chockstone and tunnel behind it. Work up and right into a right-facing corner and up to a ledge with tricky belay gear.

P6: 5.6, 160'? Work out right onto the face and let the better gear lead your way up to a small bulge at the top. Turn the bulge and head up 5.2 terrain to the top. This pitch is broken up into 2 pitches in the book but we've always done it as one with a 60m rope.

Descent: Follow the cairns. Pick your way over the peak and down into the gully. Go down the white rock on the left side of the gully. Take the gully down and to the left and contour around the mountain and back to the base of the climb.


Protection 

Pro to 3".



Add Photo Photos of Frogland
Ted going up the corner/crack on the first pitch.

Ted going up the corner/crack on the first pitch.

Christa checking out and approaching the chockstone on pitch 5.

Christa checking out and approaching the chockston...

Mike leading up the arete after a the traverse under the large roof on pitch 4.

Mike leading up the arete after a the traverse und...

Steve going under the Chockstone

Steve going under the Chockstone

Bighorn Sheep on the approach trail.

BETA PHOTO: Bighorn Sheep on the approach trail.

Obi follows up what we made the first pitch.  The recommended pitch is to use the trees to the right of him, however starting from the white column with a 60m rope you can make it to another nice belay ledge higher up that takes nice 2 and 0.75 cams.

Obi follows up what we made the first pitch. The ...

Looking down through the chockstone on Frogland, this pitch is a lot of fun, and you once past it, you can use the chockstone as natural pro!

Looking down through the chockstone on Frogland, t...

Scoping the rest of the route on a beautiful Vegas day...

Scoping the rest of the route on a beautiful Vegas...

Frogland buttress.

BETA PHOTO: Frogland buttress.

Working up the arete just after the hand traverse under the roof

BETA PHOTO: Working up the arete just after the hand traverse ...

Taking a look before heading up the arete.  This pitch and the one following (chokstone pitch) were my two favorite pitches of the climb!

Taking a look before heading up the arete. This p...

Clay approaching the huge chockstone on Frogland

Clay approaching the huge chockstone on Frogland

Chunneling

Chunneling

Ready to chunnel

Ready to chunnel

Deep chunnel

Deep chunnel

The parking area from the top of frogland.

The parking area from the top of frogland.


Add Comment Comments on Frogland
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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Aug 8, 2008
By John Peterson
Mar 24, 2004
rating: 5.8

This is a pretty good route description - I'll add a few tidbits to it. The second pitch is often divided into two halves - there is a good ledge atop the left facing layback. As described, there are two routes from this ledge - one to the left has a bolt just past this ledge and the pro is a little sketchy but not too bad.

The first pitch is possibly the crux of the climb - I'd call it 5.8 and it's more continuous than the other cruxes.

P4 and P5 are probably a bit shorter than described.

The move under the chockstone is the crux for tall climbers!

Stay left on the slabs when possible during the descent - you'll see cairns both on the left and in the main gully.

All if the belay ledges except the one atop P4 are pretty big.

Definitely the best 5.8 mutipitch in Vegas.

John

By Eric and Lucie
Oct 26, 2004

Why the bolts on the first pitch??? There is a bomber crack right there... I cannot remember if those bolts have been there for a long time... don't remember them back when I did the route many years ago. Have they been added recently? Why? There seems to be new unnecessary bolts appearing on existing routes throughout the area. Is it just me or is this really happening?

By Edward Jenner
Mar 29, 2005
rating: 5.8-

My first RR route. At the time I thought it was more like 7, but maybe 8 compared to other RR 8's

In any case a lot of fun. We traversed at lot lower on Pitch 4 than shown in the picture - to the base of the crack on the left and it seemed very reasonable.

The rap bolts had been removed from the hangers on all pitches.

By marc rosenthal
From: Las Vegas, NV
Feb 14, 2006

Probably the greatest trad route I have ever led. The best way to do this is take one rope-that way you are committed to go all the way. To me the 4th pitch felt like the true crux of the climb. This was based on traversing under the roof up high. Very committing crossing that smooth slab.

Make certain to belay right after the chockstone. Continuing into the easy chimney brings on serious rope drag.

By Dusty Cams
Mar 6, 2006

This route can be done in 4 pitches easily with a 60M rope--the face climbing on the last pitch felt harder than 5.6.

By George Bell
From: Boulder, CO
Apr 24, 2006

Yesterday we had a rather remarkable experience on this route. I have always seen it very crowded, and once tried to start at 2PM in the hope that it would have emptied out. This attempt only got up the first 2 pitches before we bumped into the conga-line and rapped off as we were unprepared to bivy.

Yesterday morning we drove into the Black Velvet parking lot at the relatively tardy hour of 7AM to see not a single vehicle. We spooked a herd of bighorn sheep on the approach. I was leading the second pitch, and the canyon was still very quiet although we had noticed the arrival of a few cars. My partner Todd Pett heard a strange sound down below, and eventually realized it was frogs. It is my understanding that this sound was the reason for the name of this route. I regret that I was too focussed on the climbing to hear them.

We found the route a lot of fun, and not entirely obvious. There are a lot of options, especially around pitches 2-3, and we wandered around a bit in this area. The temps were chilly for this time of year, but nothing a few layers couldn't solve. There was another party 2-3 pitches behind us, but other than that we had the route to ourselves. Nice route!

By Jim Matt
From: Fishers, IN
May 1, 2006

Climbed this on 4/17 (my partner Gina led all of the pitches). I thought it was a great route...lots of different options especially up high. We started around 1 PM and had the route to ourselves on a rather cool and windy day (except for Alex and Greg, another party of two with us who climbed just ahead of us). I thought the crux was the face climbing to the bolt on the 5th (chockstone) pitch. I wasn't too much of a fan climbing above this pitch...but the rest of it was spectacular. By the way, I dropped my camera at the chockstone...check the forums for contact info if you found it.

By raygay
From: Las Vegas, Nevada
May 1, 2006

As my first 5.8 lead, I agree the short face climb on tiny smooth nubs to the bolt on the 5th pitch was the crux. But my partner led the delicate traverse below the roof on the 4th pitch, so I really don't know which of the two is truly the harder lead. I could not get past the chockstone without removing my day pack and hanging it from my harness. That added to the thrill of leading the 5th pitch. Belaying on top of the chockstone seemed a good idea. Since all of the hangers on the rappel bolts have been removed, rapping off the route will require leaving some gear. This route was very crowded on Saturday, 29 Apr 06. Lots of waiting involved. Plan to be patient and courteous on this route anytime there are more than three or four parties.

By Ian Wolfe
From: Boulder, CO
Mar 9, 2007
rating: 5.8

After the 5.8 crux traverse, there is an option to take an insecure finger crack with poor, sandy feet to the left instead of the large main crack to the right. I felt this variation was solid 5.10, and the party below me, after climbing it, thought 10c seemed to fit the bill. I'd go with at least 10b. It's pretty fun, and a nice challenge, especially if you are like me and slipped off the 5.8 slab and are looking to patch your tattered honor...

We also traversed off to the left before continuing up on pitch 3 (I think?). I believe this follows the route of the first ascent, which is different from what is described in most guidebooks. This made for a slightly more adventurous climb, with a cool belay in a cave.

By Larry DeAngelo
Administrator
Mar 12, 2007

Further on the thin crack leading to the chockstone: I had the opportunity to ask George Urioste why they drilled the bolt on the face when the crack was right there. They had climbed the crack, of course, and figured it was good solid old-school 5.9 (no sandbag, there-- I agree). But George always had a thought for the community. He figured that a knucklebuster 5.9 fingercrack was out of place on what was otherwise a pretty relaxed 5.8 route. By adding the bolt-protected balance moves to the right of the corner he thought the route would appeal to a very broad cross-section of climbers. History has proved him correct, and the route is one of the most popular at Red Rock.

By McClimber
From: USA
Aug 8, 2008

I LOVE this route. If I had to choose only one route to do for the rest of my life, this would be it. Totally belay on top of the chockstone, it is a great belay.