BETA PHOTO: This photo shows the Sick For Toys area.
Description
This route would probably be quite popular if any of the guidebooks actually told you where it is. It is NOT near the Western Spaces Wall. Approach by going up the south fork of Black Velvet Canyon, past the start of Epinephrine, to the fork at the white slab. Here, take the right branch up the wash along the north side of Corduroy Ridge. About two or three hundred yards past the white slab, the canyon widens and there is a large beautiful slab on the left side. Sick for Toys is the thin fingertip crack on the left side of the slab.
Pitch 1: A broken ledge system stretches across the lower left side of the slab, beneath a few layers of roof-arches. Start below the right end of these ledges, just to the left of a bush. The boulder that simplified the opening moves has been washed away, so the first fifteen feet involve some balancy 5.9 with a bad landing. Once you get onto the easy rock, go a long way to the left. When leftward progress is finally blocked by the arches (maybe 50 feet or so), climb over them to a bush. Go right and up on easy face climbing for quite some distance to a bolted belay station at the base of the thin crack. Other than the first few moves, the climbing is 5.5 and under. The issues of rope drag, spotting the leader, and protecting the second provide some challenge on this otherwise easy pitch.
Pitch 2: Climb straight up the crack (5.8) to a hanging belay at two more bolts. (From this belay, look down and right about 30 feet to a bolted station on the blank face. This can be reached in a long rappel from the top of the route, and allows a somewhat straighter descent.)
Pitch 3: Continue up the vanishing crack (5.10b), passing 4 bolts to another belay station on a tiny ledge.
Pitch 4: Climb up past a bolt, jog briefly right to surmount the roof, then continue up the finger crack above. A second bolt protects difficult climbing (5.10d) to easier rock and the top anchor.
Protection
Wires, small cams up to #3. If you go before this route gets popular, you might want to bring some extra sling material and rap rings to improve the rappel stations.
Climbed this route in February of 05 with my brother. Very high-quality slab climb on perfect stone. Be prepared for hard slab moves on the last pitch. Also beware of old quarter-inch bolts for anchors.
Definitely needs to be re-equipped with fresh bolts for belays. We cut away all the old tattered webbing on the anchors and replaced with new slings and carabiners.
There is an alternative bolted start which I felt went at maybe 5.10+ or so. It is pretty height dependant. Rather than doing the traditional start mentioned in the description by Larry, look for a line of bolts to the left. If I remember correctly there are 3 or 4 and they take a more direct line up to the bushes. Slinging the bush above the last bolt or placing a piece might be a good idea to protect your second. There are a couple thin moves above that bolt and if you swing out left there are not to many holds on that slab.
I have not done the original start but the bolted variation is fun and gets you ready for more thin technical slab to come.
Corduroy Ridge
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