Begin in the S-shaped crack immediately above the point where the approach trail comes up to the base of the wall. Work your way up a chimney. Pull through 2 roof sections. When you get to the 3rd roof section, you can traverse left 10ft below the roof as I did, or climb right up to it and traverse left at that point, or you could pull the roof but it is intimidating. Easy climbing to the anchors after that. I was able to get a good deal of gear in on this route, but the 3rd roof section is scary and the pro is not as good in this section. Thought it was harder than Schaeffer's.
The second pitch goes up and right around a small corner, then up a very long easy slab to a good belay ledge. The third pitch moves left to a 5.6 overhang. Easy climbing takes you to the large platform (called Lovers' Ledge) on the crest of the buttress. A 4th pitch is possible up the headwall above, but danger from loose rock minimizes its appeal.
To descend, cross to the far side of the brushy gully behind Lovers' Ledge, then go up for 50 yards to the standard Whiskey Peak descent gully.
Protection
Standard Rack. Common anchor with Schaeffers Delight.
Whiskey Peak - East
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