Amber is a great but little-known route. I got beta from someone who had been on it. i went out and climbed it, had a great time on it, and pass what I know on to you.
The first pitch is shared with Wholesome Fullback, so approach as for that route. The second pitch is classic, with sustained crack to face to layback/chimney moves, and is a four star pitch in my book. The upper two pitches are easier but more serious feeling than I had expected- the top pitch in particular, which turns an exciting roof on absolutely huge horns/jugs which may or may not break off one day, and then tops out on the furthest right tip of the Wholesome Fullback buttress, smack dab in the middle of Black Velvet. Views of the whole canyon, from Triassic to Epinephrine, make the summit a neat spot to hang out before rapping the route on double ropes.
I've made a topo and pitch by pitch beta, which I'll submit as a route photo, so that should clear up any other questions. And finally- perhaps someone who knows of the FA will chip in at some point and tell me what bogus info I'm unwittingly dishing out.
Protection
Anchors are good double bolts with rings. Face cruxes are protected with good bolts. Rack: tiny to big nuts, with emphasis on small/mediums. TCUs and aliens, cams to 1.5", doubles to 3", and a 3.5. Midsize tricams would go into huecos and might make the upper pitches a little more comfortable.
By Andy Laakmann Site Landlord From: Jackson Hole, WY Oct 14, 2009 rating: 5.10-
Worthy climb! P1 is the sweet finger crack of WF. P2 is fabulous and very well protected. It felt 10a to me (I thought both cruxes of Wholesome Fullback were harder), but YMMV. I got inside the chimney... well protected and good fun. Not sure why the bolt is there... perhaps for laybackers? P3 is fun 5.8 with decent rock and is worth doing. I won't be repeating P4. The rock is scary (I had a foothold break on me while pulling the roof.... eeeeeks!) and there are only a few good moves. More importantly, the top anchor is now dangerous. The rock by one of the bolts has cracked. Hopefully John Hegyes (my partner) will post a photo of the bolt. I rapped first and was blissfully unaware... he had to rap with full knowledge. Gulp.
For a perfect day, climb P1-P3 of this route... rap to the top of P1 and finish on Wholesome Fullback, and then fire up the top pitch of Our Father on the way down!
Gear: nuts from small to large, double set of cams from small to #3 camalot, one #3.5 camalot.
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