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Our Father 

5.10 R

   

FA: Rich Wheeler, Joe Herbst, R. Grandstaff, & Vern Clevenger - 1977
Type: Trad
Consensus: 5.10c/d [details]
Length: 3 pitches, 300 feet
Views: 715 page views

Submitted By: Josh Janes on Mar 16, 2005


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You and this route  |  Other Opinions (8)
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Stef on P1


Description 

Our Father is an absolutely fantastic climb that goes up the right side of the Wholesome Fullback pinnacle.

Begin just right of the Delicate Sound of Thunder at a shallow left-facing, left-leaning corner.

P1: Climb the corner at 5.7+ to a tree. Belay or easily link with P2.

P2: Continue up the runout face above, generally trending left, past one bolt. Ignore the old hangers off the the right. 5.9+ serious.

P3: Climb the obvious, beautiful right-facing corner to a two-bolt anchor at the top of the pillar. 5.10.

Rap the route with one rope.


Protection 

Standard rack up to #2 Camalot.



Add Photo Photos of Our Father
Detail of the upper dihedral on Our Father.

BETA PHOTO: Detail of the upper dihedral on Our Father.

Bennett in the classic dihedral of P3

Bennett in the classic dihedral of P3


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By vegastradguy
From: Henderson, NV
Sep 11, 2005
rating: 5.10d R

This is a great route, but the seriousness of the second pitch should not be underestimated. A screamer and a green alien (or equivalent) is almost mandatory gear before the single bolt on the 100' pitch.

I'll also chime in and say that the final pitch is more like .10d Its steep and sustained .10 the whole way with a committing crux section that felt much harder.

I'd bring a pair of green and yellow Aliens when I do it again, along with doubles to a #2 camalot for the final pitch.

By Tony Bubb
From: Boulder, CO
Apr 7, 2006
rating: 5.10d PG13

After passing the tree on the top of P1, I felt safe and solid climbing to the first bolt of P2 on this climb as a single pitch. Athough this was some distance the climbing was easier in general than that of the first pitch, perhaps 5.7-. Anyone who can climb this route at all should not fall here. Low odds but high consequences I suppose, though the fall would be long it is not the worst a climber could take, and is on a clean slab.
As for the last pitch, 10d is right, but the first 30' is perfect handjams (5.9-) and the second half is considerably harder, yes, about 10d (.75-1.5" gear)

By eric dixon
From: Durango, CO
Oct 11, 2007
rating: 5.10d

Pitch 2 is a little run out, but not difficult. Not sure if I would give it the "R" rating or not. Just be solid on the grade if you lead it.

By Brian Weinstein
Apr 25, 2008
rating: 5.10d PG13

We combined the first two pitches easily. High quality and diverse route.