This is nearing the top of the route, after it has...
Description
Yellow Brick Road is more of a 2 pitch variation to Dream of Wild Turkerys. Start by climbing the first 2 pitches of DOWT. Pitch 1- 5.6, Pitch 2- 5.8. On pitch 3 you will start the pitch the same as you would for DOWT. About 30ft into the pitch you will reach the rightward traverse for DOWT, instead of traversing, continue straight up the crack(at first) then follow the obvious line of bolts to a hanging belay- 5.10b. Historical note- there is a metal plaque bolted to the wall where these 2 routes diverge, it tells you which way to go! Pitch 4 follows another line of bolts above the belay. Continue up until reaching a small ledge, the belay here is shared with DOWT- 5.10a. Pitch 5 follow the left-facing flake to its top, passing several bolts, then traverse back left(bolts) to gain a crack. Follow this crack up approx 20 ft to a "scooped" ledge on the left. From here you can either continue up DOWT or rappel using anchors on DOWT, and the Gobbler. Bring 2 ropes if you choose to rap.
My first (and only) route on this wall, and it was super fun. Maybe less stars compared to others - I wouldn't know.
The third pitch, although not hard, is long. I found that I was shaking out my legs rather than my arms, and after pulling through the slightly harder moves that mark the crux I was ready to get to the anchors. None of the other pitches are nearly as sustained, so after this pitch, the next one will seem short and quite easy.
The topo actually shows the belays for "Dream of Wild Turkeys". Pitch 3 goes straight up from from the belay at the end of Pitch 2. The belay for the end of Pitch 4 is where the Pitch 5 belay for DoWT comes back left.Another thing that might be useful to quick visitors like we were, is that you drop into the wash when the trail splits and stay there until towards the end of the of the short wall below Black Velvet Wall itself. The Supertopo guide -although providing great topos - is a bit confusing and bemusing in this regard, whereas the Falcon guide is much clearer.Overall a fantastic place to be: I'll be back to do the Prince of Darkness the next time I am in North America.
Awesome route. I found there to be one very distinct crux on the third pitch (P1 of YBR). I went into this expecting more crack climbing; in reality this is almost entirely a face climb, a super fun very well-protected one at that.
By FC John From: Fort Collins, CO Apr 30, 2008 rating: 5.10b
This route was fantastic.
I almost got sandbagged into leaving all of the gear at the 2nd set of anchors and just climbing on draws. After the first two gear pitches. A set of 14 draws, stoppers and small TCUs should get you through the upper pitches, which were AWESOME! Do this route now.
Black Velvet Wall
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