This route ascends the left side of the large pillar at the right side of Whiskey Peak. Approach from the streambed up a trail just past a house-sized boulder on the right side of the wash.
I'll describe 3 pitches but any two can be combined.
P1 (5.10a, 50'): climb a thin crack just right of a dihedral that leads up to the obvious crack higher up. The crux comes almost immediately and is well protected. Step left below an obvious hand-sized crack to belay at a bolted anchor.
P2 (5.10a, 50'): climb the handcrack to a roof. Instead of following the crack through the roof, traverse right to the next crack and pull through a hard move (5.10a) which is well protected. A hanging belay just past the crux allows the leader to recover before the next pitch.
P3: (5.8, 110'): climb an excellent hand crack to the top of the pillar.
Both cruxes felt harder than 5.10a to me (this rating comes from the guidebooks) but each was short and well protected.
Rap off the other side of the pillar. Two 60m ropes will take you all the way down. An intermediate anchor allows descent with just one rope. For added excitement you can TR Our Father (5.10d) on the way down.
Protection
Small cams at the cruxes, long fist sized crack at the end.
We did this route in one long (~160') pitch to a ledge and then a shorter pitch up the chimney/flared slot (handcrack?). The first pitch has lots of 5.9/10- moves and you need to meter out the pro carefully to do it as one long pitch. However this way you do not have to do a hanging belay. The second pitch is much easier, and although it looks to be flared weirdness from the ground is nothing to worry about.
We started this climb with one long pitch to the first decent place to stand. Place pro and use runners carefully to avoid rope drag. I also carried three red and three yellow camalots. You may not need triplicates but bring at least a pair of cams. We did this route after climbing on the Black Velvet Wall. We had to go back down to the wash and then climb back up. Is there a way to cut across between Whiskey Peak and Balck Velvet Wall without having to go down and up again? And, if you like this climb, definitely get on Out of Control.
On the beginning of the second pitch, you can also traverse to the right before the initial hand jam. A thin crack (about 5.9) leads up the right right side of the small roof.
By Jeremy From: Boulder, CO Jul 3, 2006 rating: 5.10b
Both cruxes felt harder to me too. The second crux was pulling out of the traverse for me. The guidebook made it look like the crux was the traverse. Pulling out of it was funky.
By Danny Inman From: Westminster Oct 10, 2006 rating: 5.10b
Awesome route. did it as one 70-m pitch to base of chimney section, then one 20-m pitch to the top of the block. Rapping off we got our rope hoplessly stuck on Our Father-watch out for the velcro-like nature of the face.
By Anthony Stout Administrator From: Albuquerque, NM Dec 7, 2006
Agreed on the cruxes, felt harder than 5.10a. I did not see a bolted belay as described in the description (except for at the top, where you rap). Nice route thought. Did in two pitches as described in other posts.
We did this with a short first pitch with a nice ledge to the left and then a longer pitch to the top. I did not see any spot that would be remotely comfortable to belay from after that early ledge.
The first pitch felt like standard 10a to me but pulling out of the roof on the second was pretty tough.
We did this route in two pitches. The first pitch is clearly harder than 10a. The crux was pulling over the roof after the traverse. At the second pitch, just continue on in the chimney and get over the block at the top onto the nice ledge behind it. You can only see two stripped bolts while in the chimney, but don't worry. The proper anchor is around the corner and you can't see it unless you are on the other side. That initially freaked me out a little :)
Whiskey Peak
RSS Feed
