Climbers on Prince of Darkness, Black Velvet Wall.
Description
Approach as for Dream of Wild Turkeys, the first pitch is shared with this climb.
Prince of Darkness ascends straight up the center of Black Velvet Wall. From the ground, 5.10 climbing seems improbable up this blank looking face. Once on the rock, positive edges abound.
Pitch 1: 5.6 Start up the right facing shallow corners to the crack above. Place some gear or solo to the anchors.
Pitch 2: 5.10b From the bolted anchors, climb straight up the face past many bolts. Mostly positive edges with a few balancy moves and slopers. End at the bolted anchors.
Pitch 3: 5.10a From the bolted anchors, climb straight up past even more bolts and positive edges, with a few pieces of gear in the crack down low. End at the bolted anchors.
Pitch 4: 5.9 Similar to the previous 10a pitch, but slightly easier.
Pitch 5: 5.9 The climbing starts to become more slabby, with a few longer runouts between bolts. This pitch ends at the belay for the final crux pitch.
Pitch 6: 5.10c The crux of the climb is right off the belay past the first 2 bolts. The rock is remarkably different as the positive edges have given way to a slick slab with a thin, shallow crack. Fire up the crack on thin holds and smears. Be aware that it is difficult to the first bolt and it is possible to smack into your belayer if you fall. Edges reappear and the climbing eases off to the final anchor at an excellent ledge, which is quite welcome because all of the previous belays have been hanging.
Descent: 2 ropes are required. You can rap the route or the adjacent Yellow Brick Road. It is also possible to finish up Dream of Wild Turkeys and walk off.
I overheard a local call the Prince of Darkness the "Prince of Footpain" He was right on that accord. The climbing isn't the most comfortable with the continuous edging, and all the hanging belays are tiring. However, he also said the climbing wasn't that good and was monotonous. I disagree, I think it is fabulously continuous, with great position and great protection. The blank looking face offers a truly unique experience for a 5.10 climb.
Overall, I felt the climbing was of continuous difficulty after the first pitch, all in the 5.10- range. I felt little difference in the grades of the various pitches until the crux moves. The crux moves are definitely in your face. Enjoy!
Protection
15+ draws, some smaller cams (green, yellow, red, orange aliens, or similar) and/ or med nuts.
A butt bag is a useful item to have on this route for all the hanging belays, unless you are comfortable hanging in your harness for half-hour periods. I'm glad I did the route but did find it somewhat painful and monotonous. The position is fantastic, though, and the wall seems too steep to be free climbable, but tiny edges abound. Worth doing - once!
Most overrated "classic" in North America? High step, crimp, high step, crimp... repeat for 400ft until an interesting, slabby crux on the last pitch.
Calling this route popular would be an understatement. The bolts are very close together, thus the route attracts many parties with marginal experience... expect much waiting and clusterf**ks. I once showed up to do this climb early on a spring weekend and discovered 4 parties waiting at the base with another already on the route. I agree with George: worth doing once.
The funny thing is Rock Warrior is probably similar to this route (althouhg I've not done it), except for the much less frequent bolts. You don't hear anybody complaining that Rock Warrior is monontonous or painful! I guess when you're led out 30 feet that's the least of your worries. Just goes to show that less frequent pro can make for a totally different climb.
I think Joe Collins described this climb exactly as I'd describe it: a memorable crux on the final pitch with just a blur in my mind for the 5 pitches leading up to it. I also think that George makes an excellent point! One of my partners docks climbs stars when they have poor pro, but I kinda wonder what Prince of Darkness would have been like for me with half the bolts... maybe not a better climb, but it definately would have engaged the senses (other than "OW! My toes hurt!") a bit.
Josh's comments hit the mark -- I too mostly recall the sketchy crux move, and otherwise that my toes hurt. It would be a better and less crowded route with fewer bolts.
We used a medium sized nut to protect the final pitch. Placed it only about 6 inches below the bolt but it could be placed before beginning to climb and it is mildly reasuring in that one is less likely to fall on the belayer. Not entirely necessary but a suggestion.
I'm not sure the crux is really a 5.10c - at least not by Red Rock standards. I'd lean more towards a 5.11 rating. Bring some small wires to aid up on if you're not strong on small finger cracks & glass-smooth slab smearing. The rest of the route is sustained crimpy moves over and over and over and over... Not a very comfortable route (read: quite painful), but it's an area classic and a definite must-do!
By Tony Bubb From: Boulder, CO Feb 2, 2006 rating: 5.10c
I did it in 1995 and it was mellow. I did it in 2003 or 2004 and it was hard and polished. No more than a few hours after telling my partner that Red Rocks was all over graded... I think that the 10c grade was right for it before it became so popular and polished, in red rocks grades. Now I suspect you are largely correct. Now it's a REAL 10c, which is to say... Red Rocks 5.11. I'm not ragging on Red Rocks, I love the place. I'm just saying that the grades are typically soft.
My first (and a friend's) multipitch climbing experience back in the early summer of 2004. Great experience, though I agree that the route was a bit monotonous with the crimping and the pain in the toes. Used a couple medium sized nuts on the 3rd (or 4th pitch?). Seeing how the 6th pitch started was a shock!, but we managed to finish the route. I agree with previous posts; great to do once!
By mark chytka From: laramie wy Apr 20, 2006 rating: 5.10c
I'd have to agree with Joe C.... High step crimp..repeat and so on. Although Beautiful rock, beautiful patina. My best advice is to wear some stiff board lasted shoes. If you are used to wearing softies on sport routes, leave them at home for this one..your feet will thank you.
Black Velvet Wall
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