This is one of the premier walls in Red Rock. It features a wealth and variety of good climbing from the chimneys of Epinephrine to the balancy edges on Dream of Wild Turkeys.
Getting There
From the Black Velvet parking lot, follow the old bicycle road west for a few hundred yards. When the road turns left, continue west on a good trail. At the base of Whiskey Peak, the is a trail branching left to climb up to Frogland and nearby routes; continue west, climbing slightly before dropping into the deep wash on your immediate right. Follow the streambed up until it is blocked by a cliff band. On the left side of the wash trails lead up to a steep 3rd class route through the band. From the top of the cliff either go straight south toward routes near Dream of Wild Turkeys, or drop back to the streambed and continue upstream a short distance to the Epinephrine area.
The Classics
Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Black Velvet Wall:
Epinephrine 5.9 Trad, 13 pitches, 1600 feet, Grade IV
Sour Mash sits there smashed in between the fascination with Epinepherine and the bolt ridden Prince Of Darkness, yet features some of the best selection of moderate climbing in the canyon. It also features a mix of styles, between traditionally protected and well bolted pitches. The bolts tend to show up when the climbing is at it's toughest on the first and crux fifth pitch. That fifth pitch is some really fun and intricate climbing that is bou...[more]Browse More Classics in NV
Hi all- I'm not seeing, in the roster of routes, a route called something like "7 Samaurai", which I remember doing (Boy, do I remember that one) a long time ago, in the late 80's or maybe early 90's? We were trying to climb something else nearby, and ended up on a route with 2-bolt belays and exactly 1 protection bolt 1/2 way between them, for maybe 5 pitches or so. We asked later at a local climbing shop what the heck that was (not in our guidebook) and they said we'd just done maybe the 2nd ascent of a newish route. Did I just dream this?? Do I have the name all wrong? It was one of the most memorable climbs in my so-far 30 years of climbing.... Help an old man remember- thanks! tim hansen, estes park, colorado
I got to thinking that I'm not at all sure when we did this climb- might have been earlier yet. At any rate, I'm sure a local can write this route up way better than I can, I remember it being somewhat L of center on the wall (or near Rock Warrior??), with a spot of 5.11 on the 1st pitch, and then 3, or 4, or 5? more pitches of maybe solid 5.9, on the usual great rock, but only 1 bolt 75' out from each belay. There was no chalk on this route, and I felt fortunate to find these single bolts out in the middle of nowhere! Was also able to occasionally get an RP (small nut) in now and then, just to dial the fear factor down a little. Just wondering why it is not included in the BVW roster of routes?
Excellent route if you're up to it, but I recommend that you be climbing at least solid 11,if not 12, with a lot of previous successful run-outs on 5.10 under your belt before attempting this one. Tiny slings and other creative gear placements are also helpful. I wonder if the bolts on it are even safe anymore?? Would be a trade route with up-dated, and added, bolts, but of course this is up to the 1st ascensionists and local climbing community. Anyway- very bold route in it's day, just happened to remember it for no particular reason and tried to look it up here. I see that it is described in "Red Rocks Select", by Todd Swain, 1995. BVW is one of the best, anywhere, in my book!
By Jeff Dunbar From: Newport Beach, CA Oct 19, 2009
I had an awesome first day at the Black Velvet Wall this Saturday (10/17/09), but I just realized I left my red Leki trecking poles at the base of the 3rd class cliff band on the approach. What a buzz kill!
If any kind soul happens to find my trecking poles, please drop me a line: c) 949-322-3963
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