By Killis Howard Aug 31, 2007
| Richard Harrison told me shortly after I moved here that if I was after splitters, I should be looking elsewhere. The preponderance of face holds that's typical of Red Rock aside, what are some worthy splitters in town that are worth reccommending? Single and multi-pitch favorites are welcome! |  |
By Dave Holliday From Louisville, CO Aug 31, 2007
| Although I haven't climbed it, there's a route called The Fox in Calico Basin at Red Rocks that might fit the bill. It's a crack of varying size in a dihedral. |  |
By caughtinside From Point Richmond, CA Aug 31, 2007
| Does Richard Harrison live in vegas? Is that guy still climbing? He's got FA's all over the place... |  |
By Killis Howard Aug 31, 2007
| Richard Harrison is so local, he's stripping. Kidding. He and his daughter Lisa are active in putting up new routes around Vegas to this day. He's a trip-nothing like seeing a full-blown ego case like myself bowing, scraping, and everything else in front of a guy as mellow as RH. He's like the Marlboro Man-larger than life. Pretty reticent, he's the definition of old school (climb his sport route in the corridor sometime-should be called "Ye Olde Groaning Flake of Horror") but he's all about passing on good info. He showed me the chipped hold on the Pearl (which recently got chipped AGAIN-thanks, thanks a lot, everyone), all the other central Kraft problems that got "enhanced" with a chisel as well (waaay more than you'd think), and talked to me about Woodrow and the Buffalo Wall. Richard is the real thing.
My vote on nasty cool splitters goes to Desert Gold. Looks like an orange striking cobra from the parking lot, hurtshurtshurts through the rings section, but you get rewarded with the closest thing to a Southeastern roof handcrack out here-who cares if it's on top of a disintegrating sugar cookie (scumby)? |  |
By David Shiembob From slc, ut Aug 31, 2007
| Red Zinger, .10d, is a sweet indian creek type pitch in oak creek I think. It's a corner, not a splitter though. |  |
By Alvaro of the North From Guadalajara, Mexico Aug 31, 2007
| We should just get our shit together and go to the creek Killis. I'm pretty sure you've climbed every known splitter in Red Rocks, except Chrysler Crack, or whatever it's called up at the Quarry. |  |
By Karsten From Reno, NV Aug 31, 2007
| If your looking for Indian Creek style splitters then I would say the best around here is triassic sands (pitch 2). If your looking for nice corners you have alot more to choose from. If undulating splitters are your cup of tea then check out Seppuku in the new Handren Guide. |  |
By Killis Howard Aug 31, 2007
| Nope, I still have a list to go. There's a few left. I'm saving the best for last. Just thought a thread might be entertaining and bring out some lesser-known routes here or there. As far as the Creek goes, that would require having money. And you being within a 500 mile radius. Come back to Vegas, make some loot, we'll take a month at the creek in april and make scabby salsa for dinner every night with ghetto spanish rice. New, less gassy formula (lies).
Karsten's post is more what I'm trying to get going. I haven't heard of Seppuku; sounds worth doing. Pony up the good shit, boys! |  |
By Jeff Giddings From Fort Collins Aug 31, 2007
| Here are a few really good crack pitches.
Gobies for Gumbies Straight Shooter Red Zinger Atman Yin & Yang Mazatlan The Fox Out of Control |  |
By Chris Burton Aug 31, 2007
| Meyer's crack Conz crack...both of these are in the back of Gateway Canyon (behind Kraft Mtn)
Karate crack (Willow Springs) |  |
By vegastradguy From Henderson, NV Sep 1, 2007
| Gobies looks STOUT! I want to get on it, but i need more cams in the hands/fists range!
Ixtlan is splitter once you gain the main crack system- and excellent at the grade. If you have a 70m rope, do it in a single pitch!
Beer Run- super sweet, absolutely beautiful- 150' splitter over by Lotta Balls.
Gin Ricky- probably the cleanest corner in RR, and ridiculously long.
Bourbon Street's second pitch is super sweet and moderate.
The Chamber of Secrets- second pitch.
Nadia's Nine, second pitch, dihedral, but good stuff and rarely done.
Lucky Nuts- a bit of a dihedral, but stellar crack climbing anyway. |  |
By Schook From las vegas Sep 2, 2007
| Straight Shooter Wholesome Fullback Eliminator Crack? |  |
By Jason D. Martin Sep 3, 2007
| The Schwa is a great splitter 10d on Whiskey Peak...
Jason |  |
By Killis Howard Sep 4, 2007
| Went out yesterday after an abortive attempt to clip bolts was cut short by rain. Drove down to Willow, hiked up to the Owl, and that 10d is now on my list! Sexy, overhung, and wide. Just like my cousins back in Virginia... |  |
By Will S Nov 25, 2008
| Vegastradmandude, you don't need more than one blue camalot for Gobies, which goes in right off the deck, and nothing bigger. It's mainly red and gold camalots, then thins down right in the bulge to green then purple soon becoming fingerlocks right over the bulge (about where you can start stemming the back wall). No fists to speak of. Seems pretty stout for 10d/11a, and the tech crux is probably the first 10ft of the route climbing funky sandy face holds around the bulging little wide bit. |  |
By vegastradguy From Henderson, NV 6 days ago
| Will S wrote: Vegastradmandude, you don't need more than one blue camalot for Gobies, which goes in right off the deck, and nothing bigger. It's mainly red and gold camalots, then thins down right in the bulge to green then purple soon becoming fingerlocks right over the bulge (about where you can start stemming the back wall). No fists to speak of. Seems pretty stout for 10d/11a, and the tech crux is probably the first 10ft of the route climbing funky sandy face holds around the bulging little wide bit.
sweet- good to know. mebbe next week i'll hump some gear out there and get it done.
killis- avoid the owl (the right hand of those two routes)- ridiculously chossy and completely not worth climbing. that route on the left, on the other hand....looked interesting. |  |
By buoux From Las Vegas, NV 3 days ago
| Richard Harrison on Gobies for Gumbies, 5.10+. |  |
By John Langston 3 days ago
| Though short, I thought Desert Crack and Desert Reality were of excellent quality. Combined they're called Desert Gold and given a rating harder than either. Roofs are fun. |  |
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