Home - Destinations - People - Partners - Forum - Photos - What's New
 ADVANCED
Las Vegas Splitters

  [ Forums > Nevada ]
  
View Latest Posts in this Forum     Page 1 of 1.  

 
By Killis Howard
Aug 31, 2007

Richard Harrison told me shortly after I moved here that if I was after splitters, I should be looking elsewhere. The preponderance of face holds that's typical of Red Rock aside, what are some worthy splitters in town that are worth reccommending? Single and multi-pitch favorites are welcome!

By Dave Holliday
From Louisville, CO
Aug 31, 2007
Natasha enjoying the snow after yet another blizzard.

Although I haven't climbed it, there's a route called The Fox in Calico Basin at Red Rocks that might fit the bill. It's a crack of varying size in a dihedral.

By caughtinside
From Point Richmond, CA
Aug 31, 2007

Does Richard Harrison live in vegas? Is that guy still climbing? He's got FA's all over the place...

By Killis Howard
Aug 31, 2007

Richard Harrison is so local, he's stripping. Kidding. He and his daughter Lisa are active in putting up new routes around Vegas to this day. He's a trip-nothing like seeing a full-blown ego case like myself bowing, scraping, and everything else in front of a guy as mellow as RH. He's like the Marlboro Man-larger than life. Pretty reticent, he's the definition of old school (climb his sport route in the corridor sometime-should be called "Ye Olde Groaning Flake of Horror") but he's all about passing on good info. He showed me the chipped hold on the Pearl (which recently got chipped AGAIN-thanks, thanks a lot, everyone), all the other central Kraft problems that got "enhanced" with a chisel as well (waaay more than you'd think), and talked to me about Woodrow and the Buffalo Wall. Richard is the real thing.

My vote on nasty cool splitters goes to Desert Gold. Looks like an orange striking cobra from the parking lot, hurtshurtshurts through the rings section, but you get rewarded with the closest thing to a Southeastern roof handcrack out here-who cares if it's on top of a disintegrating sugar cookie (scumby)?

By David Shiembob
From slc, ut
Aug 31, 2007

Red Zinger, .10d, is a sweet indian creek type pitch in oak creek I think. It's a corner, not a splitter though.

By Alvaro of the North
From Guadalajara, Mexico
Aug 31, 2007

We should just get our shit together and go to the creek Killis. I'm pretty sure you've climbed every known splitter in Red Rocks, except Chrysler Crack, or whatever it's called up at the Quarry.

By Karsten
From Reno, NV
Aug 31, 2007
FA's can be scary.  Photo by DeAngelo

If your looking for Indian Creek style splitters then I would say the best around here is triassic sands (pitch 2). If your looking for nice corners you have alot more to choose from. If undulating splitters are your cup of tea then check out Seppuku in the new Handren Guide.

By Killis Howard
Aug 31, 2007

Nope, I still have a list to go. There's a few left. I'm saving the best for last. Just thought a thread might be entertaining and bring out some lesser-known routes here or there. As far as the Creek goes, that would require having money. And you being within a 500 mile radius. Come back to Vegas, make some loot, we'll take a month at the creek in april and make scabby salsa for dinner every night with ghetto spanish rice. New, less gassy formula (lies).

Karsten's post is more what I'm trying to get going. I haven't heard of Seppuku; sounds worth doing. Pony up the good shit, boys!

By Jeff Giddings
From Fort Collins
Aug 31, 2007
Entering Glacier Gorge with Pagoda in the forefront and The Spearhead just in view on the right.

Here are a few really good crack pitches.

Gobies for Gumbies
Straight Shooter
Red Zinger
Atman
Yin & Yang
Mazatlan
The Fox
Out of Control

By Chris Burton
Aug 31, 2007

Meyer's crack
Conz crack...both of these are in the back of Gateway Canyon (behind Kraft Mtn)

Karate crack (Willow Springs)

By Alvaro of the North
From Guadalajara, Mexico
Sep 1, 2007

Ooooh I totally forgot about Atman. What a cool fuckin' climb.

Anyway...
http://www.bigupproductions.com/bigUpSite2/parallelojams2.ht>>>>>

By vegastradguy
From Henderson, NV
Sep 1, 2007
Vegastradguy follows the crux pitch of Western Swing on Windy Peak.

Gobies looks STOUT! I want to get on it, but i need more cams in the hands/fists range!

Ixtlan is splitter once you gain the main crack system- and excellent at the grade. If you have a 70m rope, do it in a single pitch!

Beer Run- super sweet, absolutely beautiful- 150' splitter over by Lotta Balls.

Gin Ricky- probably the cleanest corner in RR, and ridiculously long.

Bourbon Street's second pitch is super sweet and moderate.

The Chamber of Secrets- second pitch.

Nadia's Nine, second pitch, dihedral, but good stuff and rarely done.

Lucky Nuts- a bit of a dihedral, but stellar crack climbing anyway.

By Schook
From las vegas
Sep 2, 2007
Josh and myself on the summit of 'Tunnel Vision' July 2006

Straight Shooter
Wholesome Fullback
Eliminator Crack?

By Jason D. Martin
Sep 3, 2007
Jason

The Schwa is a great splitter 10d on Whiskey Peak...

Jason

By Killis Howard
Sep 4, 2007

Went out yesterday after an abortive attempt to clip bolts was cut short by rain. Drove down to Willow, hiked up to the Owl, and that 10d is now on my list! Sexy, overhung, and wide. Just like my cousins back in Virginia...

By Will S
Nov 25, 2008

Vegastradmandude, you don't need more than one blue camalot for Gobies, which goes in right off the deck, and nothing bigger. It's mainly red and gold camalots, then thins down right in the bulge to green then purple soon becoming fingerlocks right over the bulge (about where you can start stemming the back wall). No fists to speak of. Seems pretty stout for 10d/11a, and the tech crux is probably the first 10ft of the route climbing funky sandy face holds around the bulging little wide bit.

By vegastradguy
From Henderson, NV
6 days ago
Vegastradguy follows the crux pitch of Western Swing on Windy Peak.

Will S wrote:
Vegastradmandude, you don't need more than one blue camalot for Gobies, which goes in right off the deck, and nothing bigger. It's mainly red and gold camalots, then thins down right in the bulge to green then purple soon becoming fingerlocks right over the bulge (about where you can start stemming the back wall). No fists to speak of. Seems pretty stout for 10d/11a, and the tech crux is probably the first 10ft of the route climbing funky sandy face holds around the bulging little wide bit.


sweet- good to know. mebbe next week i'll hump some gear out there and get it done.

killis- avoid the owl (the right hand of those two routes)- ridiculously chossy and completely not worth climbing. that route on the left, on the other hand....looked interesting.

By buoux
From Las Vegas, NV
3 days ago
Monkeyfinger Wall - top of pitch 3 - 1984

Richard Harrison on Gobies for Gumbies, 5.10+.

Richard Harrison on Gobies for Gumbies, 5.10+.

By John Langston
3 days ago

Though short, I thought Desert Crack and Desert Reality were of excellent quality. Combined they're called Desert Gold and given a rating harder than either. Roofs are fun.


  [ Forums > Nevada ]
Page 1 of 1.