I'm looking for a recommendation on a rack selection for this route. I'm a solid 5.10 gear leader(in general).I'm hoping to avoid bringing up a ton of extra big gear. Thx!

I vaguely remember only having one #4 camalot (and maybe a #3.5 camalot) and thinking it was fine, unless you want to carry 36" bigbros :)

But someone who has done it more recently might have better beta.

I've done the route three times and the biggest piece I bring is a single old size 3.5 camelot or new #4 camelot and a single #3 camelot.

I've done this route twice with stoppers and hexes and a couple tricams. The route eats it up, it did leave the chimney section a bit spicey, just add a 3.5" to the list and you should be fine, great route!

Was in Red Rocks last week and gave Epinephrine a go. We had a 3.5 and 4 camalot and the chimney pitches for the most part felt safe and well protected. There was a number five camalot fixed in the second chimney pitch...it looked pretty new, and seemed like it could be removed by a determined dirt bag climber so don't count on that being there.

Anyhow, most of the advice I'd heard or read seemed pretty accurate: one four inch piece if your feeling confident, a 3.5 and 4.0 if you want to sew things up.

I climbed the route on 11/1/08. There is a brand new #5 Camalot fixed on the third chimney pitch for you to clip. Good luck bootying it out without a prybar :)

-Glenn

Did the route 11/30. Saw that #5. Looked new and shiny. Rack = TCU's 0,1,2, set of stoppers, camalots(.5,.75,1,doubles of 2,3). Lots of long slings. Didn't need anything bigger.

I did Epi Thanksgiving break 2007 with a partner named Lukasz. As I recall we took singles in BD #3, #4, double in #2, #1. We saw quite a bit of fixed pro (but not the #5 mentioned) - this helped alot. Did see however alot of blood on the wall at the ledge below the chimney squeeze crux (ie: probably a headwound from decking on the ledge). As I followed one of the chimney pitches I saw a fixed OP Link cam. I knew my partner doesn't use these, so it had to be booty. Unclipping the rope and had just started to reach in to try to remove it when I heard my partner's voice from above: "leave it Greg!". Damn I thought, he can see my mind :)

I suggest you scope out the descent carefully ahead of time and bring a bright, long range headlamp - will be usefull if you end up picking your way down in the dark, scanning for the cairns - as we did.

Have a great climb,
Greg Huey

The #5 was in a very useful place. The vast majority of the fixed pro I saw was way the heck at the back of the (2nd?) chimney. I saw this pro and wondered how anyone could even try to climb back there in such a cramped space. We climbed the chimneys much further out.

-Glenn