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By markhounslea
Mar 22, 2008

Hi, will be over from the UK in the next few weeks and whilst fairly well experienced I was wondering if I needed any big cams for the chimmney pitches. Any beta would be appreciated

By Andy Laakmann
Site Landlord
From Jackson Hole, WY
Mar 22, 2008
Racked and loaded... name that splitter behind me? Hint, its on Supercrack Buttress

Maybe one #4 at the biggest. Plenty of options for other pro.... (though it has been a few years).

Be sure on the 2nd chimney pitch (p4?) to spot the bolt out behind you. That's the ticket to leave the chimney and stem outside for a while. Otherwise you'll find yourself in offwidth hell.

And once above the black tower, take each pitch from chains to chains. Some topos have you building anchors for more pitches, but with a 60m you can go from one fixed anchor to another.

Andy

By Jeff Giddings
From Fort Collins
Mar 22, 2008
Entering Glacier Gorge with Pagoda in the forefront and The Spearhead just in view on the right.

The last two times on Epi I've brought a single new #4 camelot (or old 3.5 camelot, the gray one) and felt good. You could bring the old #4 size (purple) but I don't think you have to have it. Once above the black tower it's all extra weight anyway.


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