Nevada Book  5.8

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Type:  Trad, 2 pitches, 220 feet, Grade II Consensus:  5.8 [details] FA:  John Taylor, John Williamson. 10/1973 Submitted By:  John Hegyes on Mar 24, 2006 You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (1) Your todo list: Your stars: Your rating: -none- [change] Your ticklist: [add new tick]

BETA PHOTO: Nevada Book

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Description 

Nevada Book is a great climb, much in the same vein as Great Red Book, a route with which it shares a first ascensionist, John Williamson.

The first pitch starts on top of the large boulder and goes up the easy, right-leaning ramp for about 60 feet to a fixed anchor (bolt, nut).

The second pitch starts off with the crux immediately off the anchor. This chimney section is pretty poorly protected, but after a move or two, there is a bomber hold followed by some good pro. Continue up the mellow corner, past a tricky bulge, to the top of the feature where you build an anchor.

Descend by walking to the left, down the Red Heat Gully. There is a single rope rappel from a bush.

Location 

Nevada Book is located in the large left-facing corner about fifty feet to the right of the off-width route Split Crack. There are three bolted face climbs immediately to the left of Nevada Book.

Approach as per Running Man Wall: from Sandstone Quarry parking lot, follow a trail south-east next to the road until a path drops down into a gully past a mushroom-shaped boulder. Climb a water trough past numerous tanks up to a giant ledge and follow this contour south past the Boschton Marathon Block. Nevada Book is on the far right side of the Running Man formations.

Protection 

We used up to a #4 C4 Camalot. The runout may be mitigated with a #6 Camalot or a #4 Big Bro.