Neutron Dance 5.10+
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| Type: | Trad, 2 pitches, 140 feet |
| Consensus: | 5.10+ [details] |
| FA: | Stuart Ruckman and Gordon Douglas, mid 80s |
| Submitted By: | eDixon on Oct 3, 2008 |
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Description P1 - A short approach pitch up and right to the base of the splitter (5.7).
P2 - Nice steep splitter handcrack (5.10+).
Decent - (2) ropes are necessary
Location A ways to the right of Cactus Flower.
Protection Some smaller pieces, but the bulk of it is #2 & #3 Camalots
| Comments on Neutron Dance |
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By Gordon Douglass
Jul 16, 2009
| Hi there - Stuart Ruckman and myself did the first ascent of "Neutron Dance" back in the mid 80's or so. I remember the second pitch as being very good - a great splitter/small corner ending on a nice little ledge. We chose the name because at the time authorities were considering creating a nuclear waste repository in the vicinity of Canyonlands National Park.
Best regards - Gordon Douglass |
By JPFox
From: SLC, UT
Apr 24, 2010
| The bolts at the anchor are Sketch! Great route, Scary Rap |
By Princess Mia
From: Vail
May 6, 2012
rating: 5.10+
| Another incredible two pitch route. The first pitch is very spivey for 5.7, with a wild hand/armbar bellyflop foot wedgy traverse. Two BD #1 needed for the belay. Pitch two is about as good as it gets. Many BD #1 and a few 2s and 3s.
The anchor is fine. Two good and solid bolts, yes leader hangers but you are not wipping off them, just rapping, and the chains are good. Plus there is a solid piton. Bring extra webbing to replace the old stuff on the piton. |
By Greg G
From: SLC, UT
Nov 26, 2012
| 110ft slightly over hanging handcrack...yes please! |
By slim
Nov 26, 2012
rating: 5.10+
| excellent route, just a total blast. 80m gets you all the way down easily, not sure if a 70 would do it or not(?). |
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