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Cactus Flower 
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Unsorted Routes:

Neutron Dance 

YDS: 5.10+ French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ British: E3 5b

   
Type:  Trad, 2 pitches, 140'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10+ French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ British: E3 5b [details]
FA: Stuart Ruckman and Gordon Douglas, mid 80s
Page Views: 729
Submitted By: eDixon on Oct 3, 2008
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Description 

P1 - A short approach pitch up and right to the base of the splitter (5.7).

P2 - Nice steep splitter handcrack (5.10+).

Decent - (2) ropes are necessary


Location 

A ways to the right of Cactus Flower.


Protection 

Some smaller pieces, but the bulk of it is #2 & #3 Camalots



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By Gordon Douglass
Jul 16, 2009

Hi there - Stuart Ruckman and myself did the first ascent of "Neutron Dance" back in the mid 80's or so. I remember the second pitch as being very good - a great splitter/small corner ending on a nice little ledge. We chose the name because at the time authorities were considering creating a nuclear waste repository in the vicinity of Canyonlands National Park.

Best regards - Gordon Douglass

By JPFox
From: SLC, UT
Apr 24, 2010

The bolts at the anchor are Sketch! Great route, Scary Rap

By Princess Mia
From: Vail
May 6, 2012
rating: 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ E3 5b

Another incredible two pitch route. The first pitch is very spivey for 5.7, with a wild hand/armbar bellyflop foot wedgy traverse. Two BD #1 needed for the belay. Pitch two is about as good as it gets. Many BD #1 and a few 2s and 3s.
The anchor is fine. Two good and solid bolts, yes leader hangers but you are not wipping off them, just rapping, and the chains are good. Plus there is a solid piton. Bring extra webbing to replace the old stuff on the piton.

By Greg G
From: SLC, UT
Nov 26, 2012

110ft slightly over hanging handcrack...yes please!

By slim
Administrator
Nov 26, 2012
rating: 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ E3 5b

excellent route, just a total blast. 80m gets you all the way down easily, not sure if a 70 would do it or not(?).

By Jeff Scheuerell
Mar 20, 2014

I had more trouble with the first pitch. Awsome 2nd pitch!