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Type:  Ice, 4 pitches, 500'
Original: WI3-4 [details]
Page Views: 3,789
Submitted By: Gunkiemike on Jan 21, 2010

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Pitch one of Neurosis.


Perhaps the second most popular multipitch ice route at Poko, after PT. The first pitch is usually thin if it's iced up at all. Bring slings (there are two trees along the way) and a broad selection of rock gear. P2 is usually fat and is 3-. Belay when it's convenient because it's well over 200' to reach the broad forested ledge above. Above this, a 4th pitch of solid grade 4 leads to the top.


Several minutes walk past PT. A slab just left of a LF corner with a ledge in it about 30' up.


rock gear for Pitch 1, normal screws above that.

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By Greg Kuchyt
From: Richmond, VT
Mar 12, 2010

If the first pitch isn't in (not unlikely) you can follow the original Neurosis rock route which starts 50-75 meters climber's left of the Neurosis Direct start. The start for the rock route is just up and left of Raptor's Sream. Start on a left-to-right trending sloping ledge and gain the dike-rock tree ledge and make a move around the arete to a fixed anchor (5.6 G). Continue traversing right in the dike-rock past a few fixed pitons to a vegetated slope and on to the upper WI3- section of Neurosis (5.6 G). This rock traverse into Neurosis is known as The Italian Traverse.
In addition, if the last pitch of Neurosis isn't looking good, walk climber's right about 30 meters for another WI4+ pitch called Hidden Pique that is a bit more sheltered from the sun.

Descent Note:
While on the large forested terrace, look skier's right for a large tree with a fixed anchor near the edge of the cliff. Two 60 meter ropes will take you to another tree with a fixed anchor just above a large roof above the vegetated slope in the dike-rock. Rappel down to another fixed anchor on some less than inspiring trees and make a final rappel to the ground.

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