Neuromancer 5.11a
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| Type: | Sport, 1 pitch, 100 feet |
| Consensus: | 5.11- [details] |
| FA: | Nelson, Oaks |
| Submitted By: | Nathan Fisher on Jun 25, 2004 |
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Do not cross the pipe by the pumphouse. MORE INFO >>>
Little Cottonwood Access Update
Despite "no trespassing" signs climbers have been observed crossing the creek on the pipe at the traditional (pumphouse) parking for the Pentapitch/Coalpit areas. This pipe crossing is dangerous and a slip could be fatal. This area is privately owned and the SLCA has a positive relationship with the landowner.
The bridge near Lisa falls is the preferred location to cross the creek.
Down-canyon, the bridge leading to the south side near the Buzz bouldering area has been condemned by the Forest Service. Signs have been posted promising fines for tresspassers. We ask that you obey these signs and find an alternate route to your destination.
This information is a public crowdsourcing effort between the Access Fund,
and Mountain Project.
You should confirm closures, restrictions, and/or related dates.
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Keeping climbing areas open and conserving the climbing environment
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Description Neuromancer climbs the slick slabs just left of Pentapitch, and it looks deceivingly easy. It starts hard and eases up a bit after the 2nd bolt.
Protection Neuromancer requires 6 draws And 1-2 small pieces are optional.
By Anonymous Coward
Sep 13, 2005
| Is the right arete on? Or do you go straight up the face without the crack on the left or arete (direct bolt line)? I did it basically laying back the blunt arete with one hand, crimping with the other. |
By Nathan Fisher
Sep 13, 2005
| The older Ruckamn guide says that the arete is "off". |
By Rob C.
From: Freeport, ME
May 12, 2006
| If the arete is off, this climb doesn't seem like it would be as much fun. But definately harder - as I couldn't figure out the lower face moves; and used the arete ala "Fat Albert". Fun climb |
By john gilchrist
From: sLC, utah
Jun 8, 2006
| spent some time on this don't need to use the arret the moves are there if you can find / stay on them |
By Joseph Kolnik
From: Holladay, UT
Aug 13, 2008
rating: 5.11b/c
| I don't know about avoiding the first arete, but if you avoid the upper left arete and go strait up the face this thing is quite difficult. Hence the rating I put on it. |
By Aimee Bates
Jun 20, 2009
| This climb is really fun! That being said, it kicked my ass. (On TR!) I "climbed" the beginning 3 different ways. Arete on definitely seemed the most feesible. Straight up the face is really hard with no hands and greasy feet. Using the crack to the left is significantly easier, prob more like 5.10a. |
By Petz Pretz
From: Salt Lake City
Sep 2, 2009
| Smear smear and smear again...sometimes no hands... |
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