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Contrafuerte de Jesus Christo
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Evangeline T 
Go Big Or Go Home! T 
Nescafé and Cool Whip  T 
To Talca and Back T 

Nescafé and Cool Whip  

YDS: 5.10c/d French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 21 British: E3 5b

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 95'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10c/d French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 21 British: E3 5b [details]
FA: Chris Drover, Daniel Petty 03/2012
New Route: Yes
Fixed Hardware: 2 Anchor Bolts [details]
Page Views: 292
Submitted By: cjdrover on Apr 2, 2012

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BETA PHOTO: Nescafé and Cool Whip (is not a cappuccino)

Description 

Begun with the intention of making it to the top of wall, we were slowed by a tricky aid traverse and the infamous Cochamó butt-cracks on the second pitch. The first pitch, however, makes for wonderful 5.10+, so we put in a bolted rappell anchor on the ledge. The rest is an open project, but please don't destroy it with bolt ladders or drilled hooks.

P1: 5.10c/d Scramble to the ledge, get some pro in, and pull the bulge. Follow the thin crack, utilizing face holds as you go. Rap from ledge. Tricky gear, kinda PG-13ish.

P2: A1, incomplete. Probably would go free with cleaning somewhere in the 5.11 range. Piton and fixed nut at high point.


Location 

On the opposite wall of the descent gully from "Go Big or Go Home". Look for a thin vertical crack system that leans slightly left and leads to a large ledge.


Protection 

Trad gear to bolted anchor. 28 meters to ground.

Bring some small stoppers or 000 cams for the beginning!



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